Week 22: Delhi & Agra

Pictured here are Kris and I celebrating our 27th wedding anniversary at the Taj Mahal in Agra. The view from our Taj Plaza lodging at sunset was wonderful -- though not as spectacular as being at the historic grounds the day after (on Mother`s Day). The beauty of the place was only tarnished a little by the fact that Kris has had trouble sleeping for several nights and I have been making too many emergency runs to a toilet! Finally, finally, I may be blessed with an ailment that can peal a few pounds off my whalish belly!

Much of this week has been spent in New Delhi where we had lodging at the Asian Guest House on Kasturba Gandhi Marg at Connaught Place. The lodging itself was a good introduction to the capital of India: an aging structure with the lobby under construction (dust everywhere and elctrical wires exposed) on the second floor (above a modern art gallery) and with very friendly staff who sought to be helpful in every way they can. At about $20 per person per night, we were able to secure two air-conditioned rooms, each with its own western-style toilet and TV. Basically clean, though with bugs, our room had no window outside, the toilet seat was broken, and the advertised hot water was scarce.

Day temperatures these days in New Delhi sour up to 48 degrees celcius (about 115 farenheit) and left all four of us drinking lots of bottled water! Mira and Naomi the prize for best shoppers, scoring many items for themselves as well as for friends. I would give myself the prize for most miles walked, as forays to the Gandhi Peace Foundation, Fulbright House, and the train station (where I was unable to refund a ticket) helped me average at least 3 miles each day. My walking was by choice, helping me see life up close and slowly while avoiding the overcharging of auto rickshaw drivers who see often treat tourists as cash cows. Many good conversations were had during my outings, including time to visit with current staff at the Gandhi Peace Foundation which had sponsored my travels throughoput India 39 years ago. Some had been employed there that long -- allowing us to discuss people we knew who are no more of this world.

Kristine gets the prize for sheer endurance. One day we hired a taxi to drive the four of us to the bmain mosque in Delhi, the Red Fort (built when moslems ruled north India), and other historic sites. She must have walked well over a mile that day, in the scorching heat, up and down stairs, and across broken pavement. Though she was sore the next day, she and I still managed to spend two hours in the National Museum, viewing displays of paintings, sculpture, and artifacts dating back over 6,000 years! Incredible India is the slogan on many posters which advertise for tourists, but it is all true: India is incredible!

To enjoy the beauty, however, is also to endure some pain (oneself, as well as the obvious problems visible most everywhere). Images of estreme poverty, organized begging, and children selling pencils come to mind -- as well as the smells of garbage mixed with sewage. It is rare for a public toilet to be found, and even then it will be at least 10 rupees (about 20 cents). Many people in India`s capital live on less than 100 rupees today, with 1/3 of the population estimated to be malnourished. my most touching moment in the city was with Kris when our auto rickshaw was besieged by several people asking for money at a stop light. One old woman saw the water flask I carry with me and clearly gestured her desire for a drink. I shared it with her, pouring the precious liquid into her dirty hands as she requested. Even water, so basic to life, is becoming less available here....

As I write now, it is Mother`s Day and the Taj Mahal can be seen from where I sit near a window. The Taj, one of the wonders of the world, a tomb built by Shah Jahan out of grief for the loss of his beloved wife while she was giving birth -- is a remarkable work of art. Still, the Shah taxed his people heavily for the resources needed to build this tomb and many died for it -- including the artisans who were executed so as to insure they could never build another monument like it. The amazing marble structure is, in fact, stained in the blood of the poor -- and yet it still commands awe as a thing of beauty. How full of contradictions we are who build such structures, and how human also are we who can appreciate them.

Tonight we travel north to the cooler climates of Rishikesh and Manali. We travel back to New Delhi by car ($100 round trip) to catch an overnight bus ($54 for all 4 of us) to Rishikesh. Put together with the cost of our modest accommodations, fees assessed to tourists who visit the Taj, and a little shopping, the four of us will have spent in two days what the old woman needing water in Delhi will likely have in an entire year…. If, from one viewpoint, we have a right to enjoy such times as these, from most any other perspective we also have a duties to help improve the lives of others….

Tune in next week to hear of some of the adventures which, no doubt, will be in store for us there! Know that we are thinking of our friends and family every day, with love.

Week 21: Coming Together

Coming together is an apt theme for this week. After 39 years of separation, here I am with Laxmi Satyavrata -- pictured with Kristine (together with daughter MIra and friend Naomi who have just arrived in India this week)! Finalizing travel plans for May also came together following a reunion of Stany`s family in celebration of his youngest daughter`s first communion. A very eventful week!

I first met Laxmi and her husband Satyavrata in 1971 while staying with others at the Gandhi Peace Foundation in Calcutta. They were working in refugee campus along the border of India and what was then East Pakistan. Over one million people were fleeing the violence being inflicted by Pakistani troops upon Benglalis who were agitating for independence. Thousands were dying every day in the camps where food and clothing were desperately needed to stave off both hunger and cool December temperatures. For one month I joined them in their work and together we witnessed the last war between India and Pakistan which gave birth to Bangladesh. The bond forged during this time of hardship has remained all through these years, in spite of many address changes that left us unable to communicate with one another.

Kristine and I arrived in Bangalore by overnight bus from Kerala the morning of the night Mira and Naomi were to arrive by plane from Japan. After settling in our hotel, I went searching to find Laxmi and Satyavrata as I knew that 40 years ago Bangalore had been their home. With difficulty I found the Gandhi Peace Foundation offices in Bangalore and there I received word that Satyavrata had died just one years ago -- but Laxmi was alive and well (at age 79) living less than a block away! Our reunion that day was tearful, as we were sad that dear Satyavrata could be with us only in spirit -- and yet, there we were, able to catch up after so many years! She was amazed at how I had changed from a very thin young man of 21 (who, at 130 lbs was recovering from severe dysentery), to a ripe (good word) man aged 60 (who, at about 190 pounds, is -- heavier)!

Of course it was with great joy that Kris and I greeted our daughter and her friend at Bangalore airport. More than five months separation from Mira had been our longest ever from her -- and our parental instincts had us feeling a little like children at Christmas! Mira and Naomi soon were sharing some of their adventures during their two weeks in Japan -- mostly sleeping on floors with young people there who are part of a global network of those sharing the punk music scene. Though they had loved their time with these new friends, no one complained about sleeping in beds again here! Both also were as excited to visit India for the first time, as Kris and I were to have them join us. Our coming together was meaningful to me on the additional level of my seeing in their eyes the same wonderment I remember when I first traveled here.

Laxmi was thrilled to be able to share time with us all. One day she joined us in a rented car (with driver) who tried to showe us around Bangalore (he was often lost, and sp also would wed have been, without Laxmi`s direction). The Botanical Gardens were a highlight of this tour: over 1,000 acres set aside in the heart of the city, complete with a lotus pond, Japanese garden, a 300 year old cottonwood tree, and too many other scenes to mention. We lunched together and I learned much more about Laxmi`s very hard life than I had ever known before -- which helped Kris and I appreciate how much she has overcome to become how remarkable she is. Even now she teaches yoga in the mornings and provides nature cure services (including massage) on most days! Sadly, our brief visit to her city did not allow time for us to benefit from her skills. Maybe in the next life...

News from this week would be remiss without mention of our celebrating the first (Syrian Rite, Catholic) communion of Hanna, youngest daughter to our good friend Stany Thomas. Dressed in fine white, along with many other young boys and girls, Hanna`s event was presided over by the Archbishop of Kerela (yet another relative of Stany and his wife Shanty). The family reception at Stany`s home served over 150 people a fine buffet lunch -- with almost all of those invited being family members (coming together from as far away as France)! For Kris and I to be honorary aunt and uncle in such a family gathering only confirms how close we have come to be to these fine people. I am glad to know that Mira and Naomi will also share time with the Stany family later this month.

Hopefully the plans I have carefully laid out for May will proceed with minimal stress. Booking hotel reservations and and arranging for transportation has NOT been fun. As we proceed this day to Delhi and further north, I hope my efforts at being a travel agent do not show too much incompetence. For sure, I would never pursue a career in that field. Patience and a mellow personality are required - - and that is definately not me!

Thanks is especially due to several other people in Bangalore who made our four days here especially memorable. We are grateful to Kausalya Kugashankar, proprietor of the Terrace Gardens Guest House, for both providing us with a restful accomodation and inviting us one evening to dine with her and her family. Thanks also to the many people who shared with us during my speaking engagement at Bangalore University, and especially to Dr. D. Jeevan Kumar and his wife and daughter who insisted upon taking us out for lunch after the event. So many wonderful people, so little time. May our paths cross again some day in the U.S., where we may be blessed with visitors from these days.

Bye bye beloved Laxmi -- you will remain like a big sister to me. Goodbye Bangalore.

Week 20: to Tamil Nadu

The featured photo this week shows Kris and I sharing with Fr. Thomas Rathapillil and some of those being served at St. Joseph`s House, a facility providing for terminally ill people. That we were able to take the trip to the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu was a minor miracle in itself, as a belated invitation for me to speak at Gandhigram Rural University nearly had to be declined due to AC bus or train transportation not being available. Our travel agent, Sebastian, managed to find an auto driver to help us out for four days (three nights) at reasonable cost. It should also be said that none of the experiences detailed by Kristine below would have happened but for the efforts of our extremely attentive host at Gandhigram: Dr. S. Narayanasamy.

Making this trip was also, in part, a pilgrimage into my past. 39 years ago (at age 21) I had traveled to Kodaicanal to interview Keithahn, an American who lived and worked with Gandhi for over 20 years – and who was very active in the founding of Gandhigram Rural University. Though I knew he had died some years ago, I wanted to visit his home where we had shared together for a week. So it is we drove the narrow road up to Kodaicanal (which, at elevation 6,000 feet also providing relief from the scorching heat of the plains). It was with difficulty that we were able to eventually find his home, now empty, and the place where he and I had worshipped together on an amazing cliff nearby. While there was a sadness to this experience (most folks we spoke to had no memory of this fine man), we met a woman supervising two young children up the road from his old home. While it was claimed that these two boys were Keithan`s grandchildren, it was later clarified by email from a grandson now living in the U.S. that they were not. We also found the worship place, though it had been partially destroyed by a road constructed to access a palatial home built by the billionaire Birla and given to Sai Baba for his occasional use. Ironic, yes?

The remaining portion of this week`s entry is a reprint of Kristine`s letter to friends sent out a few days ago. If you have already read it, please forgive the redundancy. Her words express our experiences so well would be no reason for me to cover them with mine….

Dear Friends,

We have just had a remarkable few days. Besides Mike speaking to a group of college students, we visited a prosthetic clinic where they make limbs for the rural farmers. They had pictures of amputees climbing coconut trees! Next we visited a live-in community college (not the same as in the States) for young people who need skills improvement before they can apply for college. We both spoke at that event and the young people were very lively and interested, and the Salesian fathers (Dom Bosco) were quite welcoming. The next morning we visited a business man who was crippled by polio, and confined to a wheelchair. He talked about the many challenges that physically and mentally challenged face in India. (ex. Most streets/sidewalks in India would be impossible for a wheelchair to navigate without another person`s help.) Nevertheless he and another teacher organized a hospital train where those with challenges could receive surgeries and needed services to improve their functioning.

We also visited a hospice for the destitute. The priest who started this place (fairly new-4yrs) had a personal experience of finding a man next to a garbage bin trying to eat some rice with the pigs who kept pushing him over. The man was paralyzed on one side and had a gaping, vermin infested wound on the other. So began his mission to help those who had been abandoned by society, often in their last days of life. With the help of an English woman he was able to raise funds for a building which now houses over 300 people. What is amazing is that this Fr Tom suffered a quadruple by pass some years ago (he is 60) and the other two priests who are Jesuits are both over 80 years old! They have a paid staff of about 20 nurses, aids, an MD on call. He now has received a land grant of 15 acres in south Chennai, where he hopes to start another hospice.

Our driver Jibi, was quite impressed with Fr. Tom and at dinner shared with us that he was a Pentecostal Christian (somewhat rare in India) and that their small church (about 10 families) had started an orphanage which we hope to visit soon.

I have to admit missing so many folks and all the comforts of home, but this trip has been a blessing in many ways. Our daughter Mira will be flying into Bangalore at the end of April and most of May we will tour the northern part of India, before returning to Pala for five days to say good byes to the friends that have made this stay so special. Then we fly to Italy, and eventually we`ll visit Israel and Egypt. After visiting my family in Chicago we will return to Portland the second week of August -- nine months of summer!

Love and blessings to all,

Kris (AKA Mrs. Michael)

Week 19: Home Hospitality

In this picture Kristine and I are receiving the hospitality of A.M. Rasheed and Suhyl Rahman in Suhyl`s home near Alappuzha in Kerala. I had met Rasheed two months ago through his friend (and my co-worker, Stany Thomas) and had given a lecture at Nedumkandam College where he is Principal. I had met Suhyl through Rasheed one week ago, when I gave my last lecture at Mahatma Gandhi University where he works and is active with SAMSCARA (a service organization of employees) which sponsored the talk. Suhyl had then invited me to his home and Rasheed had offered to provide the transportation! Such spontaneous kindness occurs here with embarrassing frequency.

A typically Hindu cultural standard is to ``Treat a guest as God.`` As Moslems, Rasheed and Suhyl abide by a similar standard by showing great generosity and kindness. Together they insisted upon providing all meals during our 30 hours together, as well as paying for a 4-hour boat ride on the canals and lakes in and around the city of Alappuzha (known as the Venice of India). The boat ride was glorious, revealing tropical splendor throughout as well as tree climbers harvesting coconuts, a tamed eagle at a rest stop, children be taken by boat to school, laborers filling their small boats with sand to sell for construction projects, and scores of people going about their daily lives using the life-giving water by catching fish, cleaning clothes, and performing other tasks. After being served a fantastic meal (vegetarian, to suit me) prepared by Suhyl`s wife and oldest daughter and served by his son and son`s friend, we continued to engage in a wide range of conversations including religion, politics, and personal matters. We also were obliged to visit the home of Suhyl`s sister and, later, his elderly father (who is credited by many as the first to educate Moslems in Kerala on topics relating to other religious traditions throughout over 60 years as a respected Islamic orator).

Earlier in the week I had attended an event at Mahatma Gandhi University which I had thought was to honor students with whom I had shared. Upon my arrival, it was clear that I was the primary person to be honored! Something similar had happened to me at St. Thomas College the week before, so I am surprised that I was again surprised! Speeches were made, cake was shared, and one student had an odd request of me: to sing a song! For over 50 people I did my best with ``Simple Gifts``, one of my favorite Quaker songs that seemed appropriate. The applause was definately out of proportion to my meagre vocal skills....

Former St. Thomas College Principal (President), Father Mathew Kokkatt came to Pala for a two day visit to see a doctor -- and used the occasion to take Kris and I one morning to visit his traditional family home as well as two others. So it is that I finally was able to personally thank him for the key role he played in the formulation of my Fulbright Grant proposal. Through him on this day we spent time with a married couple who, at age 53, had finally given birth to a child after years of disapppointment: wow, now that is persistence (with the help of God`s grace?)! Another friend of Fr. Kokkatt served us desert in her home -- on the same day she and her husband were preparing to fly to Switzerland: wow, how many folks in the U.S. would have sought to avoid that untimely hospitality?!

Fr. Kokkatt had us back to our home just in time for us for Kris and I to be picked up by Matthew Sebastian, Chair of the Political Science Department at St. Thomas College. He had made an appointment many days before for us to meet his family and have lunch at his home. His lovely wife (a high school teacher) and two daughters (one finishing medical school, and the other in college) made us feel completely at home. Among other things, we talked about educational systems and classroom practices -- telling stories that brought many smiles. After this full day of home visits, we were too tired to attend Saturday evening mass (though the humidity of the day had also taken a toll)....

Having visited Moslem and Christian homes this week, we should also mention our sharing a week before in the home of Dr. T.V. Muralivallabhan (another friend of Stany Thomas). Murali (as his friends call him), had insisted upon showing Kris and I to a couple of local Hindu Temples before arriving at dusk to his home. His home also had a prayer space devoted to a variety of incarnations of Vishnu, including Raama and Krishna, though Shiva and his son Ganesha were also represented. Hindus declare that there are at least 10,000 names for God – and tend to culturally accept (and occasionally absorb) virtually all of the world`s other religious traditions. Murali is, himself, strongly in the tradition of the ancient Hind sage Shankaracharya and his 19th century devotee Vivekanada who taught respect for all faiths: after all, is not each religious tradition but another path to trek up the same mountain at the summit of which is the Truth that is God?

Hindus, and all those influenced by Hindu culture, are often said to be preoccupied with issues of dharma (duty). This helps explain the extreme hospitality shown to us by so many people in India. While I am sure some folks genuinely like Kris and I, while others want to visit with us for the status attached to having done so, there is no doubt that doing one`s dharma plays a role. As a last example of ``doing dharma`` for this week`s blog entry, I will tell of the visit by Mr. Nayar to us two days ago.

Mr. Nayar is a desk clerk working at the Gandhi Guest House across the street from Gandhis Sabarmati Ashram in Ahmadabad. One month ago we stayed three nights there during my involvement with a Global Warming Conference. Mr. Nayar and I had enjoyed light conversation during our stay, and he had phoned us in Kerala later to say that we had overpaid our bill by 1,000 rupees (about $20.). I had told him to simply make a gift in our name to any charity of his choice. Instead, while visiting relatives about 6 miles from where we live in Pala, he travels with his cousin by bus to hand deliver the Rs 1,000 to me. He insisted that was his duty! Kris served them some apple juice and fruits (what little we had available for surprise guests) and I insisted upon walking with them back to the bus stop. Picture the three of us men sharing a small umbrella in a torrential downpour of rain – laughing at our common discomfort while observing how wonderfully clean the air smelled! Duty. Doing dharma not only builds community, but can be a lot of fun!

Rasheed, Suhyl, Fr. Kokkat, Matthew, Murali, and Mr. Nayar: May your life examples continue to inspire me and others to build a world more at peace with itself…..

Week 18: India --La Vida Loca Part 2

In Part I of A Vida Loca (see Week 11), I ended with butterflies (a miracle of a bug, in my opinion). In this part, the less miraculous forms of insects will be discussed, but not extensively since what I know about bugs is limited by my meager experience.

The bug which has impacted me the most here is the mosquito. They love sucking on me and there are welts and itching to prove it. Obviously, there are others who enjoy the same complaint, as India has many contrivances used to prevent and destroy mosquitoes. First there is the mosquito net. We obtained one of these in January (after the fact, the bites were numerous by then) and since then it has protected us at night. Another gadget which may be peculiar to India is the plug-in mosquito deflector. Essentially, it is a small tank of toxic insecticide, when plugged into an electric outlet, releases fumes to repel mosquitoes. We do use them, but as I have seen mosquitoes flying around our apartment; its effectiveness is in question. A third line of defense is the mosquito zapper. This device is shaped like a badminton racket. When turned on, the webbing is electrically charged to electrocute mosquitoes( or any other bug which get in its path). So on many nights we play the game of mosquito badminton.(we love the smell of mosquitoes frying in the evening.) Lastly, of course, there is the mosquito repellant that you apply on your body. A nurse told us that the only thing that really works for more than ten minutes is preparations loaded with DEET. I have only used this on occasion since learning that besides repelling mosquitoes, the substance can also cause neurological problems (especially in children). As I already had Jungle Brain, I didn`t want to chance it.

The second type of bug which is a source of amusement and aggravation is the humble ant. One day I was totally mesmerized by about twenty tiny ants trying to carry a fly up to our kitchen window and over the wall outside. It was like watching some piano movers, with the same starts, stops, reversals and final success. Very entertaining. Not so entertaining when you find them in the closed containers that are supposed to prevent them from contaminating the food, drowned in the pan we use to boil water, or on anything you leave on the kitchen counter for more than five minutes. Spiders inspire the same ambivalence. Now the huge full bodied ones still engender fear and destructive impulses ( At Kurisumala, there were some huge ones. But considering the spirit of ahimsa that permeated the place, I controlled aggressive impulses. Often I did not sleep well, however.) But for some reason, I have always liked Daddy- Long Legs. And they try to inhabit over twenty corners in our apartment. I am always torn, since they do me the favor of killing mosquitoes and other bugs. However, their webs make the place look like I haven`t cleaned for months (OK...Did I hear those that know me saying, SO, What else is new?). About once every two weeks, I destroy their homes, not them. They repay the favor by rebuilding.

Another miracle in Kerala are the varied and exotic flowers. Bougainvillea, hibiscus, and other tropical plants of which I have no name bloom in a variety of colors fuchsia pink, red, golden, and salmon colored in the low land areas. The other day Mike brought home a tropical bud given to him by a Hindu. It is called the Hood of Shiva and looks similar to a peony bud before it flowers, pink but outlined in red. Inside there is a multitude of red stamens, where supposedly Shiva sat atop this feathery tuft. You may have seen the orange and yellow hanging thunbergia which Mike posted on the blog several weeks ago. This was a photo taken at Shanty`s Mom`s house in the mountains. Also common in the higher elevations are huge types of pure white and pink and white lilies.(The plants are over 6ft tall.) Another type of flower which Shanty called a Christmas lily, looks more like a small bouquet of red orange flowers.. And of course, huge red poinsettia plants grace the mountain roads. What appears to be a type of morning glory is seen everywhere, but they are usually light purple or blue in color. There is another common vine with yellow flowers and a large dark center, which surprisingly is a variety of thunbergia (alata),. In potted plants, we found a relative of the crown of thorns we have in Oregon. But this variety has larger stems and flowers which come in a variety of colors (not just the red we have). What an adventure is experiencing a fragrance in the dark and discovering the source-jasmine! On Christmas Eve midnight mass, I kept smelling it- but where was if coming from? Finally, I noticed many of the women had white garlands of it in their black hair!

As mentioned before, women provide outstanding color and elegance to the culture. However, while you will only see women in Kerala modestly dressed in churidars or saris, bill boards, periodicals, and media represent women in Western attire-jeans, shorts, tank tops and bikinis. Somehow it is OK for actresses, models and celebrities to dress this way but the ordinary woman would not consider even wearing a sleeveless dress! On the other hand, men appear to have quite a bit of freedom, especially in informal settings, other than work. Western clothing (jeans and a tee shirt), dhothi (the ethnic dress for men is essentially a wrap around skirt which may be worn long or short above the knees) with a shirt or shirtless. While the women are covered with layers of clothing. Such apparent inequality is not restricted to apparel. Women are still primarily responsible for child-rearing and domestic chores. Even when a woman is college-educated, she may not be employed outside the home, especially if she has children. When women do work, they do double duty. Meals are an arduous affair. All three- breakfast , lunch and dinner require hours of preparation.(most women arise at about 5:30am). What we have seen here is generally, the women prepare, serve, and clean up. Only after the men and children have eaten do they serve themselves.

While I have to admit to biting my tongue in the face of what our culture calls women`s oppression, I also need to say, most women do these tasks with grace,and even joy. And although the men generally do not do domestic work, most often they do have s spirit of courteous service. For example, Stany often takes it upon himself to drive us to and fro, calls to make sure we are alright, and is totally responsive to our needs. Reflecting on the Easter mystery and Jesus who said he came Not to be served, but to serve, I wonder that in our quest for equality, we have lost what it means to serve with joy. Like Peter, we balk at tasks which appear too mundane for greatness!

What`s in a NAME?

Christians in Kerala employ an interesting variation of biblical identification. Although they do have what they call family names, they do not use those as surnames. For example, our friend Stany last name is Thomas, which is his father`s first name (like Jesus, son of Joseph). Stany`s children are Tom, Anna, and Hannah Stany and Shanty, his wife, is Shanty Stany. But he is still Stany Thomas. Recently, I went to the doctor and the nurse, who was a nun, asked me for my name, and after some verbal back and forth, we decided it was easier for me to write it for her: Kristine Sonnleitner. My file was completed and written on my chart was the name: Cristeen Michael. Go figure!

Week 17: Easter Time

The Good Friday procession pictured above involved walking about a mile while observing the traditional stations of the cross. Most folks were eager to trek after having spent the previous 3 hours in Church (in addition to the three hour service the night before)! Children had lots of energy and most adults were grateful for a chance for them to get it out of their system! The mood was celebratory yet solumn. What little talking was done in whispered Malayalam – including many comments (I later learned) critical of the priest for taking so much time in Church!

Living this weekend with my colleague Stany Thomas and his family (eight people plus us!) has been taken by all in stride. ``Auntie`` Kris has become immensely popular with the three children of the household who enjoyed doing artwork with her, coloring Easter eggs for the first time, and (the best of all!) searching for the eggs after Mass on Easter morning. I am the ``Uncle`` Michael who is a little crazy (so true) but still fun. I think it was mostly the kids and I who enjoyed the loud explosions at the church (used to wake up every one within a mile or so: to be at church by 3am) – yes: for another three hour service! The explosions kind of reminded me of the IRA bombing campaign during the summer I spent in Northern Ireland so many years ago… Ka BOOM!

I confess that the highlight of the long Easter Mass for me (and for many others, judging from the murmuring) was when the electricity went out – leaving the priest without a sound system to be heard, and us all enveloped in the pre-dawn darkness. A little time for peaceful meditation seemed a relief from the powerful amplifiers and (shall I add) tone-deaf singing of this particular priest. I wonder if his being tone deaf is at all related to the dynamite-strong explosions used to wake us? Ah yes: we had several more of those ignited just outside the church building, along with traditional firecrackers, to celebrate the rising of Jesus from the dead. No doubt neighbors who are Hindu or Moslem are especially amused – though I am told they have as free a reign to be as loud as they want to be during their religious celebrations!

Whatever sarcasm may be found in my comments so far should not overshadow the transparent spirituality that pervades our host family and their community. All in the household gather (yes, religiously) every evening of every day at 7:30pm to say prayers for a half hour before dinnertime. If any loved one is having problems, all are there to provide moral or other support. Yesterday I went with Stany to visit an uncle with severe liver problems. No less than ten cousins and others came to visit that hospital room during the hour or so we were there. Family is central to this society. Far more than material wealth and possessions, people here are often rich in family and other relationships. Spirituality contributes to these relationships. We could all learn much from the closeness that is rooted in their traditional practices.

An invitation to share an evening earlier this week in a Hindu household left the same strong impression. Before driving us to his home, Murali took Kris and I to visit two nearby Hindu temples. In addition to seeing images of God to which devotes may pray, we were told of a story about how a particular tree was said to be inhabited by demons that would suck your blood should you harm the tree: now there is a twist for the traditional environmentalist! ``Harm the tree and you die`` leaves a very strong message as to the value of the tree! Another tree variety had a cloth wrapped around it so that it could be literally hugged if one desired to do so! No demons there in that one, just respect for nature. Raama and Krishna, the two most popular incarnations of Vishnu (the creative aspect of God), both lived in the forests and both loved and were loved by all of nature – so why should not we? At his home Murali and his family treated us to a vegetarian feast, noting how their faith tells them to treat every guest as if they were God. Even as Raama cares for each of us, so each of us should treat others as if they were Raama returned to visit... God is always present all life.

This Easter week was also noteworthy as having our last classroom lectures prior to the student presentations and examinations to come. The wednesday before Easter was a little like Good Friday in that my PG 2 (post graduate, second year) students met for the last time after having studied together for two years. The prospect of future separation had many in a somewhat sad and emotional state. The simple ceremony held during class time had the feeling of a wake for the death of a loved one. I was honored to be among the living memory of their experience together. Many photographs were taken of friends together, the whole group as one, and almost everyone seemed to want an individual picture taken with me!

India can be a very humbling place. Materially rich in comparison with most people we meet here, Kris and I are almost constantly showed with the hospitality and kindness of those who are more spiritually centered. Regardless of faith tradition, they value the love of family and friends far about material possessions. To be included in their circle of relationships both warms the heart and makes it ache. As was true of the students, separation will bring sadness when we move on with our lives and space and time take their toll. Hopefully the relationships we have here may be nurtured over the distance that divide us and these relationships cab remind us of where our true wealth is to be found.

Week 16: Unusual Seasons

Pictured here is Shaman Sonnleitner at Kanniyakumari (the most southern tip of India) in January. After fully three months abroad, this Blazer fan extraordinaire has now returned to Portland in time for both March Madness and the Playoffs. Though his Mom and I miss his presence here, we are glad to have has his company so long in India. Now he can enter a new chapter of his life while also contributing to the sports mania that this time of year is known for.

This has been an unusual season in so many ways beyond basketball. Shaman, his Mom, and I have had no winter! We have certainly learned to sweat well and to survive nights without electricity to feed a fan. Hey Shaman! Remember that backup battery system we paid for? Last night it lasted the advertised three hours and then expired! Lightning continued to brighten the skies all night and the rain has been coming in a steady stream. Oh goody, he might agree: more humidity! No doubt the temporary cooling effect will be paid for dearly when the sun soon arises to its normal 90 by 10am and more in the afternoon... As I write now at 6am, the roosters are greeting the day in spite of the first rain in two months -- and it is very peaceful. Later it will be like a very wet sauna!

So what is new?

Kris and I are beginning to plan ahead for the arrival of our daughter Mira (age 19) and her friend Naomi (21) a month from now. In the meantime, April looks to be full of possibilities ranging from my accepting speaking engagements in the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu to traveling to Pakistan where Fulbright would like me to contribute to a Conference there celebrating their 60th anniversary in the country. The big problem with the Pakistan option is that they would not allow Kris to accompany me due to the security (or lack of security?) situation there. Bombings in and near Islamabad definately does complicate travel -- and I wonder how well my proposed lecture will be received: ``Nonviolent Responses to Terrorism``. It would be fun to find out!

This past week a three day National Seminar on ``Gandhi and Religious Pluralism`` was held at nearby Mahatma Gandhi University. Just two days before it was to begin, I was in a meeting helping to finalize the program! Those of you who know me might imagine the exasperation felt by one as obsessively organized and as compulsively perfectionist as I am. Surprise: a little detachment can go a long way to reducing stress! Yes, I put in about 5 hours producing a paper which (as it turned out) I had only 10 minutes to present – but such matters I am now becoming more accustomed to. Mellow Me? No, not quite… But I think I grimace, roll my eyes, and sigh a little less now than before. As it all worked out, while most of the presentations were as boring as I had expected – some good new relationships were begun and it was a pleasure to see some of the folks I have shared with during the previous four months elsewhere in Kerala and beyond. Relationships. Is that not really where much of the hope for a future can be found?

The sun is now brightening the eastern sky over my right shoulder. It is a hazy red sunrise, made a bhit surreal by all of the moisture still in the air. The rain has just subsided and sounds of prayer are filling the air. Nearby catholic nuns arise early and provide a spiritual greeting to the day. Birds are adding to the music as they fly among the cocoanut, banana, papaya, and jack trees that are currently bearing fruit. There is much to be grateful for here – as anywhere we may be. As I now complete this blog entry before the battery on this laptop dies, I hope that each of you may take time in your day to count your blessings. Though electricity and cool temperatures may not be among our joys here, there is so much to appreciate. Creation is not only what we see when eyes are open, but what we can give birth to with our positive attitudes. Gandhi was right: problems can be opportunities and our opportunities as best when they are embraced.

Yes it has been an unusual winter season for my son Shaman, an unusual season for basketball, and an unusual season full of learning opportunities that are only beginning to be appreciated. It has been a pensive week and a beautiful morning. I am thankful for having been able to share some of it with you.

Peace be with you all as we approach the easter season of renewal – as renewal is crucial regardless of what religious (or even non-religious) tradition there may be. Yes. Peace be with you Shaman. Peace to us all.

Week 15: Reflections on Religion

This photograph was taken at Kurisumala Ashram near Vagamon in the Western Ghat highlands about 30 miles east of Pala where we live. Michael is tired from all of our recent traveling (see last week`s report), so this is me, Kristine, providing some reflections this week.

Although I returned to Pala from six days at Kurisumala over two weeks ago, there was little time to write about the experience, since the next week we went to Udaipur and Ahmadabad for conferences (Fulbright and Global Warming). The retreat was wonderful, but before talking about that, some history about the Syrian Catholic Church might be helpful.

As mentioned before, the Catholics in Pala often refer to themselves as St. Thomas Christians, that is, their religious conversion can be traced back to St. Thomas the Apostle. Indeed, many of their church structures can be dated to before the year 1000 AD, and before Vatican II, the language used in their liturgies was Syrian (close to Aramaic, the language of Jesus). When the Jesuits and other orders came in the 15th and 16th centuries, they were surprised to find many people in South India already practicing the faith. However, since the ritual was different, those of the Roman rite tried to impose both the centralized church structure (the St. Thomas churches are decentralized but connected to each other) and the rubrics of the Roman rite upon the Syrians. One particularly contentious issue was that of married clergy, which eventually Rome was successful in banning. (The clergy in India are totally celibate today). Besides celibacy, Rome restricted the Syrians from evangelizing, especially in certain areas. While these restrictions were somewhat mitigated by Vatican II declarations there is still contention about this issue. (On a personal note, I have been attending the Syrian rite in Pala. Daily mass is well attended and almost everyone receives communion. On Sundays, there is standing room only. In our travels, I have attended Roman rite churches, and the contrast is striking. On Sundays, the church is only half full and few receive Eucharist. In India, the Syrians appear the more compatible with the culture.)

Liturgically, there are some interesting variations. First of all, there are two altars separated by a veil which opens after introductory prayers are said, before the Liturgy of the Word. The scriptures reside on the altar of sacrifice (which reminds me of pre-Vatican II)-up against the foremost wall, in the sanctuary or what the Syrians refer to as the holy of holies. When the gospel is proclaimed, the priest brings the scripture (accompanied by two altar boys with lighted candles) to the exterior altar. The liturgy of the Eucharist is celebrated on the altar of sacrifice with the priest facing away from the congregation during that time. While communion is sometimes distributed western style, with long lines going up to the priest, often the priest (accompanied by an altar boy with lit candle) weaves up and down the aisles of the church, distributing to the men first and then the women. On Sundays, there is typically elaborate use of incense. Their altar boys (usually four, grade-school age) could teach us about incense. The censure is usually glowing, if not on fire, and the youngsters swing it with athletic vigor. During daily and Sunday mass, the congregation usually responds with an oriental sounding (minor key) chant. On Sundays, however, the responses usually are accompanied by electronics -- Syrian Catholic karaoke (the synthesizer usually sounds like a harmonium). During communion, a hymn may be sung by a soloist or the entire congregation.

At Kurisumala, there were more variations in liturgical rubrics. While basically Syrian, most of the masses are celebrated facing the congregation, with the celebrants and the congregation (stools for those who wish) sitting cross legged on the floor. Along with the bread (one whole wheat round for the whole assembly)and the wine, flowers are offered. At one point about a dozen flowers are individually prayed over and offered up with the Eucharistic gifts. Incense is a daily affair, not only at mass, but also at the liturgy of the hours. (3:30am, no coffee or food, monks in saffron robes chanting in Malayalam, a cloud of incense, and butterflies winging around the chapel -- either I had gone to heaven or was in one of those David Carradine movies!) The monks typically chant the prayers which are often accompanied by harmonium (no karaoke!)

As you know, this trip to India has been a challenge for me-the heat, the humidity the mosquito bites, the problems with washing. Kurisumala was thankfully, a lot cooler but quite austere- hard bed, stools (no chairs with backs), early rising and rice and vegetable curry for most meals (at breakfast they actually had the best whole wheat bread-a rarity in India). No towels, sheets, soap or toilet paper were provided (although I brought my own- have learned to come prepared for all circumstances here).

However, what most impressed me about Kurisumala was what it stated in their brochure -- no fees are charged but donations will be accepted. They added that the daily cost of hosting a guest was Rs 50 -- about a dollar. This was so unlike what happens so often in retreat centers in the US. Three hundred dollars for a 3 day retreat.. (They often do say that stipends/scholarships are available, but you wonder: Is $300. the real cost of the retreat? If yes, would it not be better to lower the budget (simpler food, accommodations, etc...) so more folks would find it more affordable? Or is the price so high intentionally to attract a certain income group? Or is the market place determining the value? The Brothers were welcoming but not overly solicitous. I was happy to have a private retreat and they were content to let me be.

Two books that were helpful during the retreat was Prayer with the Harp of the Spirit (essentially, the Syrian version of Prayer of Christians) and Revelations of Love by Julian of Norwich. The good thing about the Harp was that the monks prayed this each day and not just with their mouths. Like Prayer of Christians, there are psalms and scripture readings, but also there are poetic prayers, many from St Ephrem to whom the Syrians attribute their theology. Often these prayers refer to events in salvation history, the cycles in nature, and religious philosophy. They inspire deeper reflection. There is a lot of physical activity and gesture in Syrian liturgy. For instance, at the beginning of most prayer times, while singing ``Holy are You O God, Holy are you the Strong, Holy are you the Deathless who was crucified for us, have mercy on us!`` the monks go from standing position to full prostration-three times. Except during Fridays in Lent, when they do it 30 times. Most of these monks are 40-60 yrs old. I have to admit, as a Westerner, the religious practice in India, whatever the faith, puts us to shame.

Julian of Norwich gave me a new perspective on suffering, as she contends that Jesus gives us suffering to one us with Himself. Since Jesus` greatest act of love was His passion and death on the cross, when we participate in that agapic mystery, we become one with Him. (Not the popular idea, that God wants us to be self-fulfilled; suffering is only the result of our bad karma, Jesus came to bring healing if we believe, etc…). Another revelation that Jesus gave Julian is that all manner of thing will be well. Julian is confused about this revelation. She asks Jesus: What about the teaching of the Church about hell and purgatory? What about the obvious results of sin and selfish free-will choices that are made? Jesus only responds that what may be impossible for her to conceive, is possible for Him and assures her that He will perform the great act so that all maybe well. While some might consider the radical implications of this revelation as heretical, to me it was a comfort. (I have often wondered how the God that preached forgiveness seventy times seven, could also maintain eternal punishment.)

During my stay at Kurisumala, there were two personal messages of grace. The first was regarding the bathroom. Upon arrival I noticed there were two bathrooms next to my room, both with Indian style toilets ( essentially, a hole in the ground with two places for your feet in front). As I sat in my room wondering how I would manage this, I saw that there was a door in the back of my cell-a closet maybe, where clothing might be hung. I opened the door and about three steps down was a bath room with a Western style toilet! Halleluia! Thank you, Jesus. The second occurred one morning when the chapel was filled to capacity. As I grabbed a stool to sit in the vestibule, I looked up and saw a cross above the entrance to the church. Not just any cross, but the cross (smaller version) that I took with me to Pala, the same one that was left in my prayer corner in Portland, the very same that graces Ascension, my parish church: The cross of San Damiano! (We have visited many churches and shrines and I have never seen the San Damiano anywhere except Kurisumala.) How well Jesus blesses us and makes us feel welcomed and at home!

Week 14: Two Conferences

Pictured here is the Rockwood Palace Resort and Spa, where one of two Conferences we attended last week was held. Located in the city of Udaipur, in the state of Rajasthan (3 hours on the air from where we live in Kerala), the Rockwood really was like a Palace. Spacious rooms, huge swimming pool, fancy meals with unending desserts, and even unlimited alcohol (on some days) were part of the package that Fulbright Scholars from all over India were treated to for three days and four nights. Your tax money at work?

While a few others shared my discomfort regarding such fancy accomodations, most enjoyed the ``good life`` to the max -- thinking little about what ``good`` should mean. As U.S. citizens, are we entitled to a life of luxury in a world where over 1/3 of humanity lives on less than $2/day (and half of those subsist on slow starvation diets)? If not entitled, should we enjoy such a life when it is given to us for even a few days? I confess to having enjoyed it some... So is there then hypocracy in the gap between my basic values and my actions? YES. Admitting this, my perfectionist personality leaves me with a bittersweet taste.....

One afternoon I escaped from the over-stimulation of continuous 1-15 minute presentations from intellectually brilliant people and met Malik, an auto-rickshaw driver. Malik is Muslim, with a family of four to feed and provide for on a net income of about $5/day. Well off by Indian standards, he has learned passable English over the years by providing transportation to tourists. Udaipur is a city full of historic Rajput palaces, lakes, museums, and amazing artwork. He seemed more than a little surprised when I asked him to take me anywhere he might like, really anywhere. So it was that I enjoyed two hours talking with him while he introduced me to his Mosque and several (including Hindu) friends. At one such stop, an employee of one of his friends had a major seizure in which he lost consciousness and bit his tongue with the blood staining his shirt. I felt very good about my role in the medical emergency and worked with others to help the person successfully through the crisis of this day. Even so, returning to the Rockweeod Palace to the Fulbright Conference, I knew that this man`s seizures would likely continue untreated by any doctor, as the modest cost of medications would almost certainly be beyond his income to purchase....

On March 11th morning we departed by automobile from Udaipur to Ahmadabad (in the state of Gujarat). Our driver was Mr. Singh, a Hindu with two pierced ears (like me) indicating his kshatriya (warrior) family heritage. Our 5 hour trip cost 5,750 rupees (about $120) -- which was cheap, considering we had five passengers in the car (including two students living in Ahmadabad who joined Kris, Shaman, and I free of charge). Train tickets for the five of us would have cost more! Still, getting to know Mr. Singh (plus a little math) informed me that he would earn only 200 rupees for his full day of driving (5 hours with us, then 5 hours to return to his family in Udaipur). He was very happy that my tip (not customary) doubled his income for the day from less than $5 to about $9. Was that generous? Even considering the fact that $1 here really carries a purchasing power of $4, could we in the U.S. cover our family expenses for $36/day? How about less than $4? (as over 100 million people in India have
inclomes of under $1/day)???

In Ahmadabad I was one of six (supposedly) expert speakers at an International Conference on Global Warming. Invited primarily due to the status given to Fulbrighters (and maybe a little related to my expertise regarding Gandhi and my serving on the national committee of the U.S. Green Party), I shared the limelight with people like the Governor of Gujarat and a retired India Supreme Court Justice. Crazy, huh? They may have thought so -- as I was the only major speaker at the Conference who was very critical of Globalization (Free Trade) and its supporters (Prime Minister Monmohan Singh and President Obama). This surprised many in the audience of 350, though quite a few expressed gratitude for my comments in private. Most middle-class Indians are quite supportive of free trade policies, though they are aware of the increasing economic disparity it has so far produced. Many believe that the benefits will eventually trickle down -- while others (including Gandhi) do not share this faith.

The real highlights of our three days in Ahmadabad included a 6-hour visit with my Indian sister Dina Patel, residing at the Gandhi Ashram Guest House (where I previously resided for a week in 1972!), and being able to join in a 2-mile walk commemorating the 80th anniversary of the Salt March which began from Gandhi Asram on March 12, 1930. Over 1,000 people participated in the walk this year, with me being (as far as I could see) the only caucasian face. It was a spiritual experience for me, reinforcing my evolving view that inter-related crises in ecology, economic globalization, and militarism require a global independence movement today. Starting with baby steps myself, I intend to be more of a nonviolent soldier in my lifestyle as well as in my public life.

From the Rockwood Palace and a medical emergency, to a Global Warming Conference and commemorating the largest civil disobedience campiagn in the history of the world -- it has been a week full of too many experiences to easy digest. Hopefully this next week will allow time for reflection. Those who may have read this entry are most welcome to share their thoughts with me. How shall we live with ourselves? with others? -- and with more humor than I have shared here!!!! In next weeks` entry I will seek to discuss more of the funny side to some of our life experiences.

Week 13: Looking Forward

The flowers on the tree pictured here are my favorites seen so far during these travels. Hanging down, as if from heaven, they present a splendor to the eye!!! They are here posted as a small gift in celebration of the remarriage of my step mother, Ellen to her new beau Al. It is now early morning on March 7th in India – close to the 2pm time on March 6th in Seattle when the wedding is scheduled at the Space Needle! It sure was nice to talk with you over the phone yesterday and hear that most members of both families expect to be attending (except me). Hopefully we Sonnleitners can meet Al and become acquainted shortly after our return to the U.S. in August. For now, know that I hope the two of you have many wonderful years together. Peace be with you both.

Much of this last week has also been prelude to the future for us. Kris has spent time reflecting upon how the 6-day retreat at the Kurisulmala Ashram the week before may positively impact her spirituality. Time has been devoted to preparing for a very busy time this coming week when Kris, Shaman and I travel north to Rajasthan to attend a Fulbright Conference, and then to Gujarat where I am a featured speaker at an International Conference on Global Warming. Plans have also been finalized for Shaman to depart back to the U.S. the following week, on March 17th. Long distance communications with our daughters Sonrisa and Mira in Portland have also turned our minds to how their lives may continue to unfold in positive ways.

Of course, the mundane is always present. Water must be boiled twice daily (8 liters) for our drinking use. Kinks must be worked out in an electricity back-up battery system to provide us with up to 500 watts to power a few fans. Sheets and clothing wet with sweat must be washed, as temperatures increase to around 100 degrees (with over 75% humidity) in the daytime, declining to only 80 at night. While a neighbor loaned us his extra TV so we could watch the Winter Olympic, the snow skiing seemed surreal in a context where we cannot even tolerate a cover sheet while sleeping at night. It also is clear that ice cream has a short life in a small refrigerator which turns off with each daily power outage! Still, life goes on, and at least our misery has company – since even folks native to Kerala express some discomfort with how climate change is impacting them too….

This week my classes at St. Thomas enjoyed a good rhythm, interrupted only by one day of cancellation (due to yet another bus strike). Kristine enjoyed a day of shopping and sharing with her friend Shanty, who helped her purchase three beautiful sets of Indian clothing (two custom-made) at crazy low prices. Kris and I spent much of yesterday in the good company of Shanty`s husband Stany, as he transported us first to visit to Kottayam to work on visa issues and then to an Alcohol and Drug Rehabilitation Center where he volunteers to teach courses. Another upside of this week was the showing of several film segments of A FORCE MORE POWERFUL to a very receptive student audience at St. Thomas College, with full approval of the administration. The day after that heartening event, one of my classrooms was invaded by a crowd led by a student artist who presented me with a gift portraying a very good likeness of me (sunburned) with Gandhi smiling behind my right shoulder.

So it is that each day here has its challenges and positive adventures. Who knows where another 3-inch (thankfully non-poisonous) spider will show up? Two days ago Kris pointed out to me one on the wall less than a foot from my right shoulder as I was using this laptop! What a horrible thought – I do hope that spider had nothing of the spirit of Gandhi! We did not practice nonviolence in that situation….

Rather than ramble on longer (with humor that may not be appreciated), let me add some more thoughts regarding Gandhi. What now follows is written version of a ten minute presentation set to be shared on March 10 at the Fulbright Conference. If you share my interest in Gandhi (or in education issues more generally), know that your comments would be most welcome. It is entitled:

TEACHING GANDHI IN INDIA

Teaching Gandhi is both like teaching any other course in India and a good deal more complicated than that. It is similar because teaching anything really well needs to go beyond mere information to stimulating knowledge and nurturing wisdom. It is more complicated as Gandhi is looked upon as an historic person far more than as someone whose views have relevance for today. In short, he is generally studied and revered rather than listened to as an inspiration for action that may address current issues.

With regards to courses on Gandhi, most teachers and students focus upon learning (mostly memorizing) information about the historical person and events and persons associated with his ideas and actions. This information may be effectively communicated through lecture notes and (possibly, with greater depth via use of a biography and scholarly writings). Knowledge (in the sense of real understanding) is rarely encouraged because understanding requires a level of mental interaction in the learning process beyond the memorizing of information.

The stimulating of knowledge involves critical thinking and analysis which requires what may be revered to be questioned, ideas to be tested, and personal evaluations of current relevance to be made. From my observations the process of stimulating such knowledge seems largely absent from most teaching relating to Gandhi -- as well as to other subjects even at the PG level in the Indian State of Kerala. This is only partly explained by the teaching to the test phenomenon. It is also deeply rooted in a culture of hierarchy in which reverence is accorded to Mother, Father,Teacher, and God (in that order) and questioning of authority is systematically discouraged. Knowledge is seen, in this context, as something to be conveyed rather than stimulated -- and the goal is to ``mold`` students more than to empower them.

Where stimulating knowledge by more active than passive learning strategies occasionally does occur, there is a general resistance to nurturing wisdom. Wisdom may well mean different things to different people, but it is commonly understood to involve the application of knowledge to experience. Without experience, one cannot
be wise. Ivory towers where learning information is remarkable and critical thinking skills are well developed, still usually do not venture much into the real world beyond the walls of academia (whether they be more covered in ivy or topped off with broken glass). Activities in the U.S. that seek to transcend these walls, including the use of internships (as in cooperative education), service learning, and other experiencial opportunities are usually not utilized in the U.S. and seem even more rare in India. Often not nurtured in academia, wisdom is something you may seek on your own.

Gandhi, himself, did not believe in Ivory Towers. His ideas regarding Nai Talim (New Education) insist upon learning and questioning, while doing. He would insist upon the learning of information in a context where established truths are constantly questioned (and knowledge improved), even as what we intellectually know is tested in the light of experience (an evolving wisdom in which service to society is expected and walls that separate us are to be transcended). Too often, however, many who even describe themselves as Gandhian remain mentally walled in by historical practices like the wearing of khadi and the using of outdated technology. Reverence for Gandhi, ironically, can itself become a wall to our understanding his deeper wisdom: that we,each of us, must hold firm to the truth as we see it in our own time!

In this context, teaching Gandhi needs to include 1) understanding information about him as he lived within his historical context, 2) stimulating knowledge (including critical analyses) of his teachings as they may (or may not) be relevant to realities to be addressed in our current time, and 3) nurturing such wisdom as may result from taking our knowledge into the world and experiencing the praxis of it. Teaching Gandhi need not involve the molding of little Gandhians. Gandhi did not want others to follow him without question. He wanted people to seek progressively new truths (sat), by means that minimize harm (ahimsa), with a willingness to voluntarily sacrifice our own comforts and even lives in the process (tapas). His life gives us a role model not a road map.

If we carefully study Gandhi, the danger is that we may be inspired to action regarding current issues in education and beyond. To memorize information with respect to Gandhi threats no status quo. To stimulate knowledge that leads to greater academic freedom and an improved body of knowledge runs the risk of our critical thinking being criticized by others who may feel threatened by it. To nurture a wisdom borne of experience and encourage concrete action to both serve others in this world and to confront oppressive structures of authority -- well, that gets really complicated!

Are professors called to do more than profess -- and actually engage in action that may affect our own lifestyles and put us in conflict with established norms and policies? Should students be empowered to do the same? These are among the most basic of questions that are raised by teaching Gandhi on a deeper level in India, or elsewhere! Academic institutions in India seem generally unready to encourage the teaching Gandhi anywhere close to this level at this time. Doing so would be to invite basic change; to go beyond reverence to action; to potentially serve as agents of revolution that could bring down the walls which both divide humanity today and threaten life on this planet.

To teach Gandhi, I believe, should risk our being impacted by his words and his life example. That is to:

Live as if you were to die tomorrow.
Learn as if you were to live forever. -- Gandhi