Week 18: India --La Vida Loca Part 2

In Part I of A Vida Loca (see Week 11), I ended with butterflies (a miracle of a bug, in my opinion). In this part, the less miraculous forms of insects will be discussed, but not extensively since what I know about bugs is limited by my meager experience.

The bug which has impacted me the most here is the mosquito. They love sucking on me and there are welts and itching to prove it. Obviously, there are others who enjoy the same complaint, as India has many contrivances used to prevent and destroy mosquitoes. First there is the mosquito net. We obtained one of these in January (after the fact, the bites were numerous by then) and since then it has protected us at night. Another gadget which may be peculiar to India is the plug-in mosquito deflector. Essentially, it is a small tank of toxic insecticide, when plugged into an electric outlet, releases fumes to repel mosquitoes. We do use them, but as I have seen mosquitoes flying around our apartment; its effectiveness is in question. A third line of defense is the mosquito zapper. This device is shaped like a badminton racket. When turned on, the webbing is electrically charged to electrocute mosquitoes( or any other bug which get in its path). So on many nights we play the game of mosquito badminton.(we love the smell of mosquitoes frying in the evening.) Lastly, of course, there is the mosquito repellant that you apply on your body. A nurse told us that the only thing that really works for more than ten minutes is preparations loaded with DEET. I have only used this on occasion since learning that besides repelling mosquitoes, the substance can also cause neurological problems (especially in children). As I already had Jungle Brain, I didn`t want to chance it.

The second type of bug which is a source of amusement and aggravation is the humble ant. One day I was totally mesmerized by about twenty tiny ants trying to carry a fly up to our kitchen window and over the wall outside. It was like watching some piano movers, with the same starts, stops, reversals and final success. Very entertaining. Not so entertaining when you find them in the closed containers that are supposed to prevent them from contaminating the food, drowned in the pan we use to boil water, or on anything you leave on the kitchen counter for more than five minutes. Spiders inspire the same ambivalence. Now the huge full bodied ones still engender fear and destructive impulses ( At Kurisumala, there were some huge ones. But considering the spirit of ahimsa that permeated the place, I controlled aggressive impulses. Often I did not sleep well, however.) But for some reason, I have always liked Daddy- Long Legs. And they try to inhabit over twenty corners in our apartment. I am always torn, since they do me the favor of killing mosquitoes and other bugs. However, their webs make the place look like I haven`t cleaned for months (OK...Did I hear those that know me saying, SO, What else is new?). About once every two weeks, I destroy their homes, not them. They repay the favor by rebuilding.

Another miracle in Kerala are the varied and exotic flowers. Bougainvillea, hibiscus, and other tropical plants of which I have no name bloom in a variety of colors fuchsia pink, red, golden, and salmon colored in the low land areas. The other day Mike brought home a tropical bud given to him by a Hindu. It is called the Hood of Shiva and looks similar to a peony bud before it flowers, pink but outlined in red. Inside there is a multitude of red stamens, where supposedly Shiva sat atop this feathery tuft. You may have seen the orange and yellow hanging thunbergia which Mike posted on the blog several weeks ago. This was a photo taken at Shanty`s Mom`s house in the mountains. Also common in the higher elevations are huge types of pure white and pink and white lilies.(The plants are over 6ft tall.) Another type of flower which Shanty called a Christmas lily, looks more like a small bouquet of red orange flowers.. And of course, huge red poinsettia plants grace the mountain roads. What appears to be a type of morning glory is seen everywhere, but they are usually light purple or blue in color. There is another common vine with yellow flowers and a large dark center, which surprisingly is a variety of thunbergia (alata),. In potted plants, we found a relative of the crown of thorns we have in Oregon. But this variety has larger stems and flowers which come in a variety of colors (not just the red we have). What an adventure is experiencing a fragrance in the dark and discovering the source-jasmine! On Christmas Eve midnight mass, I kept smelling it- but where was if coming from? Finally, I noticed many of the women had white garlands of it in their black hair!

As mentioned before, women provide outstanding color and elegance to the culture. However, while you will only see women in Kerala modestly dressed in churidars or saris, bill boards, periodicals, and media represent women in Western attire-jeans, shorts, tank tops and bikinis. Somehow it is OK for actresses, models and celebrities to dress this way but the ordinary woman would not consider even wearing a sleeveless dress! On the other hand, men appear to have quite a bit of freedom, especially in informal settings, other than work. Western clothing (jeans and a tee shirt), dhothi (the ethnic dress for men is essentially a wrap around skirt which may be worn long or short above the knees) with a shirt or shirtless. While the women are covered with layers of clothing. Such apparent inequality is not restricted to apparel. Women are still primarily responsible for child-rearing and domestic chores. Even when a woman is college-educated, she may not be employed outside the home, especially if she has children. When women do work, they do double duty. Meals are an arduous affair. All three- breakfast , lunch and dinner require hours of preparation.(most women arise at about 5:30am). What we have seen here is generally, the women prepare, serve, and clean up. Only after the men and children have eaten do they serve themselves.

While I have to admit to biting my tongue in the face of what our culture calls women`s oppression, I also need to say, most women do these tasks with grace,and even joy. And although the men generally do not do domestic work, most often they do have s spirit of courteous service. For example, Stany often takes it upon himself to drive us to and fro, calls to make sure we are alright, and is totally responsive to our needs. Reflecting on the Easter mystery and Jesus who said he came Not to be served, but to serve, I wonder that in our quest for equality, we have lost what it means to serve with joy. Like Peter, we balk at tasks which appear too mundane for greatness!

What`s in a NAME?

Christians in Kerala employ an interesting variation of biblical identification. Although they do have what they call family names, they do not use those as surnames. For example, our friend Stany last name is Thomas, which is his father`s first name (like Jesus, son of Joseph). Stany`s children are Tom, Anna, and Hannah Stany and Shanty, his wife, is Shanty Stany. But he is still Stany Thomas. Recently, I went to the doctor and the nurse, who was a nun, asked me for my name, and after some verbal back and forth, we decided it was easier for me to write it for her: Kristine Sonnleitner. My file was completed and written on my chart was the name: Cristeen Michael. Go figure!

Week 17: Easter Time

The Good Friday procession pictured above involved walking about a mile while observing the traditional stations of the cross. Most folks were eager to trek after having spent the previous 3 hours in Church (in addition to the three hour service the night before)! Children had lots of energy and most adults were grateful for a chance for them to get it out of their system! The mood was celebratory yet solumn. What little talking was done in whispered Malayalam – including many comments (I later learned) critical of the priest for taking so much time in Church!

Living this weekend with my colleague Stany Thomas and his family (eight people plus us!) has been taken by all in stride. ``Auntie`` Kris has become immensely popular with the three children of the household who enjoyed doing artwork with her, coloring Easter eggs for the first time, and (the best of all!) searching for the eggs after Mass on Easter morning. I am the ``Uncle`` Michael who is a little crazy (so true) but still fun. I think it was mostly the kids and I who enjoyed the loud explosions at the church (used to wake up every one within a mile or so: to be at church by 3am) – yes: for another three hour service! The explosions kind of reminded me of the IRA bombing campaign during the summer I spent in Northern Ireland so many years ago… Ka BOOM!

I confess that the highlight of the long Easter Mass for me (and for many others, judging from the murmuring) was when the electricity went out – leaving the priest without a sound system to be heard, and us all enveloped in the pre-dawn darkness. A little time for peaceful meditation seemed a relief from the powerful amplifiers and (shall I add) tone-deaf singing of this particular priest. I wonder if his being tone deaf is at all related to the dynamite-strong explosions used to wake us? Ah yes: we had several more of those ignited just outside the church building, along with traditional firecrackers, to celebrate the rising of Jesus from the dead. No doubt neighbors who are Hindu or Moslem are especially amused – though I am told they have as free a reign to be as loud as they want to be during their religious celebrations!

Whatever sarcasm may be found in my comments so far should not overshadow the transparent spirituality that pervades our host family and their community. All in the household gather (yes, religiously) every evening of every day at 7:30pm to say prayers for a half hour before dinnertime. If any loved one is having problems, all are there to provide moral or other support. Yesterday I went with Stany to visit an uncle with severe liver problems. No less than ten cousins and others came to visit that hospital room during the hour or so we were there. Family is central to this society. Far more than material wealth and possessions, people here are often rich in family and other relationships. Spirituality contributes to these relationships. We could all learn much from the closeness that is rooted in their traditional practices.

An invitation to share an evening earlier this week in a Hindu household left the same strong impression. Before driving us to his home, Murali took Kris and I to visit two nearby Hindu temples. In addition to seeing images of God to which devotes may pray, we were told of a story about how a particular tree was said to be inhabited by demons that would suck your blood should you harm the tree: now there is a twist for the traditional environmentalist! ``Harm the tree and you die`` leaves a very strong message as to the value of the tree! Another tree variety had a cloth wrapped around it so that it could be literally hugged if one desired to do so! No demons there in that one, just respect for nature. Raama and Krishna, the two most popular incarnations of Vishnu (the creative aspect of God), both lived in the forests and both loved and were loved by all of nature – so why should not we? At his home Murali and his family treated us to a vegetarian feast, noting how their faith tells them to treat every guest as if they were God. Even as Raama cares for each of us, so each of us should treat others as if they were Raama returned to visit... God is always present all life.

This Easter week was also noteworthy as having our last classroom lectures prior to the student presentations and examinations to come. The wednesday before Easter was a little like Good Friday in that my PG 2 (post graduate, second year) students met for the last time after having studied together for two years. The prospect of future separation had many in a somewhat sad and emotional state. The simple ceremony held during class time had the feeling of a wake for the death of a loved one. I was honored to be among the living memory of their experience together. Many photographs were taken of friends together, the whole group as one, and almost everyone seemed to want an individual picture taken with me!

India can be a very humbling place. Materially rich in comparison with most people we meet here, Kris and I are almost constantly showed with the hospitality and kindness of those who are more spiritually centered. Regardless of faith tradition, they value the love of family and friends far about material possessions. To be included in their circle of relationships both warms the heart and makes it ache. As was true of the students, separation will bring sadness when we move on with our lives and space and time take their toll. Hopefully the relationships we have here may be nurtured over the distance that divide us and these relationships cab remind us of where our true wealth is to be found.

Week 16: Unusual Seasons

Pictured here is Shaman Sonnleitner at Kanniyakumari (the most southern tip of India) in January. After fully three months abroad, this Blazer fan extraordinaire has now returned to Portland in time for both March Madness and the Playoffs. Though his Mom and I miss his presence here, we are glad to have has his company so long in India. Now he can enter a new chapter of his life while also contributing to the sports mania that this time of year is known for.

This has been an unusual season in so many ways beyond basketball. Shaman, his Mom, and I have had no winter! We have certainly learned to sweat well and to survive nights without electricity to feed a fan. Hey Shaman! Remember that backup battery system we paid for? Last night it lasted the advertised three hours and then expired! Lightning continued to brighten the skies all night and the rain has been coming in a steady stream. Oh goody, he might agree: more humidity! No doubt the temporary cooling effect will be paid for dearly when the sun soon arises to its normal 90 by 10am and more in the afternoon... As I write now at 6am, the roosters are greeting the day in spite of the first rain in two months -- and it is very peaceful. Later it will be like a very wet sauna!

So what is new?

Kris and I are beginning to plan ahead for the arrival of our daughter Mira (age 19) and her friend Naomi (21) a month from now. In the meantime, April looks to be full of possibilities ranging from my accepting speaking engagements in the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu to traveling to Pakistan where Fulbright would like me to contribute to a Conference there celebrating their 60th anniversary in the country. The big problem with the Pakistan option is that they would not allow Kris to accompany me due to the security (or lack of security?) situation there. Bombings in and near Islamabad definately does complicate travel -- and I wonder how well my proposed lecture will be received: ``Nonviolent Responses to Terrorism``. It would be fun to find out!

This past week a three day National Seminar on ``Gandhi and Religious Pluralism`` was held at nearby Mahatma Gandhi University. Just two days before it was to begin, I was in a meeting helping to finalize the program! Those of you who know me might imagine the exasperation felt by one as obsessively organized and as compulsively perfectionist as I am. Surprise: a little detachment can go a long way to reducing stress! Yes, I put in about 5 hours producing a paper which (as it turned out) I had only 10 minutes to present – but such matters I am now becoming more accustomed to. Mellow Me? No, not quite… But I think I grimace, roll my eyes, and sigh a little less now than before. As it all worked out, while most of the presentations were as boring as I had expected – some good new relationships were begun and it was a pleasure to see some of the folks I have shared with during the previous four months elsewhere in Kerala and beyond. Relationships. Is that not really where much of the hope for a future can be found?

The sun is now brightening the eastern sky over my right shoulder. It is a hazy red sunrise, made a bhit surreal by all of the moisture still in the air. The rain has just subsided and sounds of prayer are filling the air. Nearby catholic nuns arise early and provide a spiritual greeting to the day. Birds are adding to the music as they fly among the cocoanut, banana, papaya, and jack trees that are currently bearing fruit. There is much to be grateful for here – as anywhere we may be. As I now complete this blog entry before the battery on this laptop dies, I hope that each of you may take time in your day to count your blessings. Though electricity and cool temperatures may not be among our joys here, there is so much to appreciate. Creation is not only what we see when eyes are open, but what we can give birth to with our positive attitudes. Gandhi was right: problems can be opportunities and our opportunities as best when they are embraced.

Yes it has been an unusual winter season for my son Shaman, an unusual season for basketball, and an unusual season full of learning opportunities that are only beginning to be appreciated. It has been a pensive week and a beautiful morning. I am thankful for having been able to share some of it with you.

Peace be with you all as we approach the easter season of renewal – as renewal is crucial regardless of what religious (or even non-religious) tradition there may be. Yes. Peace be with you Shaman. Peace to us all.

Week 15: Reflections on Religion

This photograph was taken at Kurisumala Ashram near Vagamon in the Western Ghat highlands about 30 miles east of Pala where we live. Michael is tired from all of our recent traveling (see last week`s report), so this is me, Kristine, providing some reflections this week.

Although I returned to Pala from six days at Kurisumala over two weeks ago, there was little time to write about the experience, since the next week we went to Udaipur and Ahmadabad for conferences (Fulbright and Global Warming). The retreat was wonderful, but before talking about that, some history about the Syrian Catholic Church might be helpful.

As mentioned before, the Catholics in Pala often refer to themselves as St. Thomas Christians, that is, their religious conversion can be traced back to St. Thomas the Apostle. Indeed, many of their church structures can be dated to before the year 1000 AD, and before Vatican II, the language used in their liturgies was Syrian (close to Aramaic, the language of Jesus). When the Jesuits and other orders came in the 15th and 16th centuries, they were surprised to find many people in South India already practicing the faith. However, since the ritual was different, those of the Roman rite tried to impose both the centralized church structure (the St. Thomas churches are decentralized but connected to each other) and the rubrics of the Roman rite upon the Syrians. One particularly contentious issue was that of married clergy, which eventually Rome was successful in banning. (The clergy in India are totally celibate today). Besides celibacy, Rome restricted the Syrians from evangelizing, especially in certain areas. While these restrictions were somewhat mitigated by Vatican II declarations there is still contention about this issue. (On a personal note, I have been attending the Syrian rite in Pala. Daily mass is well attended and almost everyone receives communion. On Sundays, there is standing room only. In our travels, I have attended Roman rite churches, and the contrast is striking. On Sundays, the church is only half full and few receive Eucharist. In India, the Syrians appear the more compatible with the culture.)

Liturgically, there are some interesting variations. First of all, there are two altars separated by a veil which opens after introductory prayers are said, before the Liturgy of the Word. The scriptures reside on the altar of sacrifice (which reminds me of pre-Vatican II)-up against the foremost wall, in the sanctuary or what the Syrians refer to as the holy of holies. When the gospel is proclaimed, the priest brings the scripture (accompanied by two altar boys with lighted candles) to the exterior altar. The liturgy of the Eucharist is celebrated on the altar of sacrifice with the priest facing away from the congregation during that time. While communion is sometimes distributed western style, with long lines going up to the priest, often the priest (accompanied by an altar boy with lit candle) weaves up and down the aisles of the church, distributing to the men first and then the women. On Sundays, there is typically elaborate use of incense. Their altar boys (usually four, grade-school age) could teach us about incense. The censure is usually glowing, if not on fire, and the youngsters swing it with athletic vigor. During daily and Sunday mass, the congregation usually responds with an oriental sounding (minor key) chant. On Sundays, however, the responses usually are accompanied by electronics -- Syrian Catholic karaoke (the synthesizer usually sounds like a harmonium). During communion, a hymn may be sung by a soloist or the entire congregation.

At Kurisumala, there were more variations in liturgical rubrics. While basically Syrian, most of the masses are celebrated facing the congregation, with the celebrants and the congregation (stools for those who wish) sitting cross legged on the floor. Along with the bread (one whole wheat round for the whole assembly)and the wine, flowers are offered. At one point about a dozen flowers are individually prayed over and offered up with the Eucharistic gifts. Incense is a daily affair, not only at mass, but also at the liturgy of the hours. (3:30am, no coffee or food, monks in saffron robes chanting in Malayalam, a cloud of incense, and butterflies winging around the chapel -- either I had gone to heaven or was in one of those David Carradine movies!) The monks typically chant the prayers which are often accompanied by harmonium (no karaoke!)

As you know, this trip to India has been a challenge for me-the heat, the humidity the mosquito bites, the problems with washing. Kurisumala was thankfully, a lot cooler but quite austere- hard bed, stools (no chairs with backs), early rising and rice and vegetable curry for most meals (at breakfast they actually had the best whole wheat bread-a rarity in India). No towels, sheets, soap or toilet paper were provided (although I brought my own- have learned to come prepared for all circumstances here).

However, what most impressed me about Kurisumala was what it stated in their brochure -- no fees are charged but donations will be accepted. They added that the daily cost of hosting a guest was Rs 50 -- about a dollar. This was so unlike what happens so often in retreat centers in the US. Three hundred dollars for a 3 day retreat.. (They often do say that stipends/scholarships are available, but you wonder: Is $300. the real cost of the retreat? If yes, would it not be better to lower the budget (simpler food, accommodations, etc...) so more folks would find it more affordable? Or is the price so high intentionally to attract a certain income group? Or is the market place determining the value? The Brothers were welcoming but not overly solicitous. I was happy to have a private retreat and they were content to let me be.

Two books that were helpful during the retreat was Prayer with the Harp of the Spirit (essentially, the Syrian version of Prayer of Christians) and Revelations of Love by Julian of Norwich. The good thing about the Harp was that the monks prayed this each day and not just with their mouths. Like Prayer of Christians, there are psalms and scripture readings, but also there are poetic prayers, many from St Ephrem to whom the Syrians attribute their theology. Often these prayers refer to events in salvation history, the cycles in nature, and religious philosophy. They inspire deeper reflection. There is a lot of physical activity and gesture in Syrian liturgy. For instance, at the beginning of most prayer times, while singing ``Holy are You O God, Holy are you the Strong, Holy are you the Deathless who was crucified for us, have mercy on us!`` the monks go from standing position to full prostration-three times. Except during Fridays in Lent, when they do it 30 times. Most of these monks are 40-60 yrs old. I have to admit, as a Westerner, the religious practice in India, whatever the faith, puts us to shame.

Julian of Norwich gave me a new perspective on suffering, as she contends that Jesus gives us suffering to one us with Himself. Since Jesus` greatest act of love was His passion and death on the cross, when we participate in that agapic mystery, we become one with Him. (Not the popular idea, that God wants us to be self-fulfilled; suffering is only the result of our bad karma, Jesus came to bring healing if we believe, etc…). Another revelation that Jesus gave Julian is that all manner of thing will be well. Julian is confused about this revelation. She asks Jesus: What about the teaching of the Church about hell and purgatory? What about the obvious results of sin and selfish free-will choices that are made? Jesus only responds that what may be impossible for her to conceive, is possible for Him and assures her that He will perform the great act so that all maybe well. While some might consider the radical implications of this revelation as heretical, to me it was a comfort. (I have often wondered how the God that preached forgiveness seventy times seven, could also maintain eternal punishment.)

During my stay at Kurisumala, there were two personal messages of grace. The first was regarding the bathroom. Upon arrival I noticed there were two bathrooms next to my room, both with Indian style toilets ( essentially, a hole in the ground with two places for your feet in front). As I sat in my room wondering how I would manage this, I saw that there was a door in the back of my cell-a closet maybe, where clothing might be hung. I opened the door and about three steps down was a bath room with a Western style toilet! Halleluia! Thank you, Jesus. The second occurred one morning when the chapel was filled to capacity. As I grabbed a stool to sit in the vestibule, I looked up and saw a cross above the entrance to the church. Not just any cross, but the cross (smaller version) that I took with me to Pala, the same one that was left in my prayer corner in Portland, the very same that graces Ascension, my parish church: The cross of San Damiano! (We have visited many churches and shrines and I have never seen the San Damiano anywhere except Kurisumala.) How well Jesus blesses us and makes us feel welcomed and at home!

Week 14: Two Conferences

Pictured here is the Rockwood Palace Resort and Spa, where one of two Conferences we attended last week was held. Located in the city of Udaipur, in the state of Rajasthan (3 hours on the air from where we live in Kerala), the Rockwood really was like a Palace. Spacious rooms, huge swimming pool, fancy meals with unending desserts, and even unlimited alcohol (on some days) were part of the package that Fulbright Scholars from all over India were treated to for three days and four nights. Your tax money at work?

While a few others shared my discomfort regarding such fancy accomodations, most enjoyed the ``good life`` to the max -- thinking little about what ``good`` should mean. As U.S. citizens, are we entitled to a life of luxury in a world where over 1/3 of humanity lives on less than $2/day (and half of those subsist on slow starvation diets)? If not entitled, should we enjoy such a life when it is given to us for even a few days? I confess to having enjoyed it some... So is there then hypocracy in the gap between my basic values and my actions? YES. Admitting this, my perfectionist personality leaves me with a bittersweet taste.....

One afternoon I escaped from the over-stimulation of continuous 1-15 minute presentations from intellectually brilliant people and met Malik, an auto-rickshaw driver. Malik is Muslim, with a family of four to feed and provide for on a net income of about $5/day. Well off by Indian standards, he has learned passable English over the years by providing transportation to tourists. Udaipur is a city full of historic Rajput palaces, lakes, museums, and amazing artwork. He seemed more than a little surprised when I asked him to take me anywhere he might like, really anywhere. So it was that I enjoyed two hours talking with him while he introduced me to his Mosque and several (including Hindu) friends. At one such stop, an employee of one of his friends had a major seizure in which he lost consciousness and bit his tongue with the blood staining his shirt. I felt very good about my role in the medical emergency and worked with others to help the person successfully through the crisis of this day. Even so, returning to the Rockweeod Palace to the Fulbright Conference, I knew that this man`s seizures would likely continue untreated by any doctor, as the modest cost of medications would almost certainly be beyond his income to purchase....

On March 11th morning we departed by automobile from Udaipur to Ahmadabad (in the state of Gujarat). Our driver was Mr. Singh, a Hindu with two pierced ears (like me) indicating his kshatriya (warrior) family heritage. Our 5 hour trip cost 5,750 rupees (about $120) -- which was cheap, considering we had five passengers in the car (including two students living in Ahmadabad who joined Kris, Shaman, and I free of charge). Train tickets for the five of us would have cost more! Still, getting to know Mr. Singh (plus a little math) informed me that he would earn only 200 rupees for his full day of driving (5 hours with us, then 5 hours to return to his family in Udaipur). He was very happy that my tip (not customary) doubled his income for the day from less than $5 to about $9. Was that generous? Even considering the fact that $1 here really carries a purchasing power of $4, could we in the U.S. cover our family expenses for $36/day? How about less than $4? (as over 100 million people in India have
inclomes of under $1/day)???

In Ahmadabad I was one of six (supposedly) expert speakers at an International Conference on Global Warming. Invited primarily due to the status given to Fulbrighters (and maybe a little related to my expertise regarding Gandhi and my serving on the national committee of the U.S. Green Party), I shared the limelight with people like the Governor of Gujarat and a retired India Supreme Court Justice. Crazy, huh? They may have thought so -- as I was the only major speaker at the Conference who was very critical of Globalization (Free Trade) and its supporters (Prime Minister Monmohan Singh and President Obama). This surprised many in the audience of 350, though quite a few expressed gratitude for my comments in private. Most middle-class Indians are quite supportive of free trade policies, though they are aware of the increasing economic disparity it has so far produced. Many believe that the benefits will eventually trickle down -- while others (including Gandhi) do not share this faith.

The real highlights of our three days in Ahmadabad included a 6-hour visit with my Indian sister Dina Patel, residing at the Gandhi Ashram Guest House (where I previously resided for a week in 1972!), and being able to join in a 2-mile walk commemorating the 80th anniversary of the Salt March which began from Gandhi Asram on March 12, 1930. Over 1,000 people participated in the walk this year, with me being (as far as I could see) the only caucasian face. It was a spiritual experience for me, reinforcing my evolving view that inter-related crises in ecology, economic globalization, and militarism require a global independence movement today. Starting with baby steps myself, I intend to be more of a nonviolent soldier in my lifestyle as well as in my public life.

From the Rockwood Palace and a medical emergency, to a Global Warming Conference and commemorating the largest civil disobedience campiagn in the history of the world -- it has been a week full of too many experiences to easy digest. Hopefully this next week will allow time for reflection. Those who may have read this entry are most welcome to share their thoughts with me. How shall we live with ourselves? with others? -- and with more humor than I have shared here!!!! In next weeks` entry I will seek to discuss more of the funny side to some of our life experiences.

Week 13: Looking Forward

The flowers on the tree pictured here are my favorites seen so far during these travels. Hanging down, as if from heaven, they present a splendor to the eye!!! They are here posted as a small gift in celebration of the remarriage of my step mother, Ellen to her new beau Al. It is now early morning on March 7th in India – close to the 2pm time on March 6th in Seattle when the wedding is scheduled at the Space Needle! It sure was nice to talk with you over the phone yesterday and hear that most members of both families expect to be attending (except me). Hopefully we Sonnleitners can meet Al and become acquainted shortly after our return to the U.S. in August. For now, know that I hope the two of you have many wonderful years together. Peace be with you both.

Much of this last week has also been prelude to the future for us. Kris has spent time reflecting upon how the 6-day retreat at the Kurisulmala Ashram the week before may positively impact her spirituality. Time has been devoted to preparing for a very busy time this coming week when Kris, Shaman and I travel north to Rajasthan to attend a Fulbright Conference, and then to Gujarat where I am a featured speaker at an International Conference on Global Warming. Plans have also been finalized for Shaman to depart back to the U.S. the following week, on March 17th. Long distance communications with our daughters Sonrisa and Mira in Portland have also turned our minds to how their lives may continue to unfold in positive ways.

Of course, the mundane is always present. Water must be boiled twice daily (8 liters) for our drinking use. Kinks must be worked out in an electricity back-up battery system to provide us with up to 500 watts to power a few fans. Sheets and clothing wet with sweat must be washed, as temperatures increase to around 100 degrees (with over 75% humidity) in the daytime, declining to only 80 at night. While a neighbor loaned us his extra TV so we could watch the Winter Olympic, the snow skiing seemed surreal in a context where we cannot even tolerate a cover sheet while sleeping at night. It also is clear that ice cream has a short life in a small refrigerator which turns off with each daily power outage! Still, life goes on, and at least our misery has company – since even folks native to Kerala express some discomfort with how climate change is impacting them too….

This week my classes at St. Thomas enjoyed a good rhythm, interrupted only by one day of cancellation (due to yet another bus strike). Kristine enjoyed a day of shopping and sharing with her friend Shanty, who helped her purchase three beautiful sets of Indian clothing (two custom-made) at crazy low prices. Kris and I spent much of yesterday in the good company of Shanty`s husband Stany, as he transported us first to visit to Kottayam to work on visa issues and then to an Alcohol and Drug Rehabilitation Center where he volunteers to teach courses. Another upside of this week was the showing of several film segments of A FORCE MORE POWERFUL to a very receptive student audience at St. Thomas College, with full approval of the administration. The day after that heartening event, one of my classrooms was invaded by a crowd led by a student artist who presented me with a gift portraying a very good likeness of me (sunburned) with Gandhi smiling behind my right shoulder.

So it is that each day here has its challenges and positive adventures. Who knows where another 3-inch (thankfully non-poisonous) spider will show up? Two days ago Kris pointed out to me one on the wall less than a foot from my right shoulder as I was using this laptop! What a horrible thought – I do hope that spider had nothing of the spirit of Gandhi! We did not practice nonviolence in that situation….

Rather than ramble on longer (with humor that may not be appreciated), let me add some more thoughts regarding Gandhi. What now follows is written version of a ten minute presentation set to be shared on March 10 at the Fulbright Conference. If you share my interest in Gandhi (or in education issues more generally), know that your comments would be most welcome. It is entitled:

TEACHING GANDHI IN INDIA

Teaching Gandhi is both like teaching any other course in India and a good deal more complicated than that. It is similar because teaching anything really well needs to go beyond mere information to stimulating knowledge and nurturing wisdom. It is more complicated as Gandhi is looked upon as an historic person far more than as someone whose views have relevance for today. In short, he is generally studied and revered rather than listened to as an inspiration for action that may address current issues.

With regards to courses on Gandhi, most teachers and students focus upon learning (mostly memorizing) information about the historical person and events and persons associated with his ideas and actions. This information may be effectively communicated through lecture notes and (possibly, with greater depth via use of a biography and scholarly writings). Knowledge (in the sense of real understanding) is rarely encouraged because understanding requires a level of mental interaction in the learning process beyond the memorizing of information.

The stimulating of knowledge involves critical thinking and analysis which requires what may be revered to be questioned, ideas to be tested, and personal evaluations of current relevance to be made. From my observations the process of stimulating such knowledge seems largely absent from most teaching relating to Gandhi -- as well as to other subjects even at the PG level in the Indian State of Kerala. This is only partly explained by the teaching to the test phenomenon. It is also deeply rooted in a culture of hierarchy in which reverence is accorded to Mother, Father,Teacher, and God (in that order) and questioning of authority is systematically discouraged. Knowledge is seen, in this context, as something to be conveyed rather than stimulated -- and the goal is to ``mold`` students more than to empower them.

Where stimulating knowledge by more active than passive learning strategies occasionally does occur, there is a general resistance to nurturing wisdom. Wisdom may well mean different things to different people, but it is commonly understood to involve the application of knowledge to experience. Without experience, one cannot
be wise. Ivory towers where learning information is remarkable and critical thinking skills are well developed, still usually do not venture much into the real world beyond the walls of academia (whether they be more covered in ivy or topped off with broken glass). Activities in the U.S. that seek to transcend these walls, including the use of internships (as in cooperative education), service learning, and other experiencial opportunities are usually not utilized in the U.S. and seem even more rare in India. Often not nurtured in academia, wisdom is something you may seek on your own.

Gandhi, himself, did not believe in Ivory Towers. His ideas regarding Nai Talim (New Education) insist upon learning and questioning, while doing. He would insist upon the learning of information in a context where established truths are constantly questioned (and knowledge improved), even as what we intellectually know is tested in the light of experience (an evolving wisdom in which service to society is expected and walls that separate us are to be transcended). Too often, however, many who even describe themselves as Gandhian remain mentally walled in by historical practices like the wearing of khadi and the using of outdated technology. Reverence for Gandhi, ironically, can itself become a wall to our understanding his deeper wisdom: that we,each of us, must hold firm to the truth as we see it in our own time!

In this context, teaching Gandhi needs to include 1) understanding information about him as he lived within his historical context, 2) stimulating knowledge (including critical analyses) of his teachings as they may (or may not) be relevant to realities to be addressed in our current time, and 3) nurturing such wisdom as may result from taking our knowledge into the world and experiencing the praxis of it. Teaching Gandhi need not involve the molding of little Gandhians. Gandhi did not want others to follow him without question. He wanted people to seek progressively new truths (sat), by means that minimize harm (ahimsa), with a willingness to voluntarily sacrifice our own comforts and even lives in the process (tapas). His life gives us a role model not a road map.

If we carefully study Gandhi, the danger is that we may be inspired to action regarding current issues in education and beyond. To memorize information with respect to Gandhi threats no status quo. To stimulate knowledge that leads to greater academic freedom and an improved body of knowledge runs the risk of our critical thinking being criticized by others who may feel threatened by it. To nurture a wisdom borne of experience and encourage concrete action to both serve others in this world and to confront oppressive structures of authority -- well, that gets really complicated!

Are professors called to do more than profess -- and actually engage in action that may affect our own lifestyles and put us in conflict with established norms and policies? Should students be empowered to do the same? These are among the most basic of questions that are raised by teaching Gandhi on a deeper level in India, or elsewhere! Academic institutions in India seem generally unready to encourage the teaching Gandhi anywhere close to this level at this time. Doing so would be to invite basic change; to go beyond reverence to action; to potentially serve as agents of revolution that could bring down the walls which both divide humanity today and threaten life on this planet.

To teach Gandhi, I believe, should risk our being impacted by his words and his life example. That is to:

Live as if you were to die tomorrow.
Learn as if you were to live forever. -- Gandhi

Week 12: Ceremonies

This week was full of preparations for the Diamond Jubilee (60 year) celebration of the Founding of St. Thomas College, where I am teaching. In the featured photo above is the first student enrolled at St. Thomas in 1950 being honored in the presence of its most famous alumni, the Honorable K.G. Balakrishnan, Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of India (dressed in the suit). For students and faculty at St. Thomas, having Chief Justice Balakrishnan on campus was an event in the same category of visits made by Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru (in 1954) and Indira Gandhi (who would later become Prime Minister). The event was full of pomp and formal ceremony, in an auditorium absolutely packed to capacity. Of course, Kris, Shaman, and I had reserved seats of honor in the second row of the audience....

In addition to helping prepare for the Diamond Jubilee, I was kept busy with keeping our household together while Kristine was attending a five-day retreat at Kurisumala (Christian) Ashram, an experience she will be reporting about next week. Cleaning, shopping, cooking, getting a backup electrical system installed, and accepting the offer of a neighbor who offered us his extra TV (to watch the Olympics!) kept me busy even as I contuinued teaching my regular courses -- and was surprised to discover that one I thought had been finished was being begun anew. It seems that just when I think I am clear about my duties here, something new arises (due to communication problems or simply very different institutional styles) which surprises me! Another example of this was when I was asked (just 4 days ago) to prepare comments for an Accreditation Team visiting St. Thomas tomorrow: another ceremony which will fill the campus auditorium! I was assured that my comments were to honestly reflect insights I might have relating to how education at this college could be improved.

Since my comments were requested in writing so as to be a part of the formal record, I have added them here for those of you who may be interested. To better understand my last recommendation (regarding free expression), it might be helpful for me to quote here an exerpt from the College document I refer to as guideline number 4: ``Students are prohibited from indulging in anti-institutional, anti-national, anti-social, communal, immoral, or political expressions and activities within the campus or hostel``. Out of respect to those who have shown great kindness towards me, I thought it best to frame my comments as:

Best Practices Statement: March 1, 2010.

Institutions of Higher Education may seek to develop best practices in at least four important interrelated areas: 1) student learning, 2) faculty development, 3) structure of administration, and 4) campus culture. In the 8 minutes allotted to me, I will devote 2 minutes to each of these four areas, including one salient suggestion for improvement in each area.

In the realm of student learning, best practices in the U.S. include adherence to the rule that, for each hour in a classroom, a student should devote two hours outside the classroom to study, reading, and research. St. Thomas College is blessed with students eager to learn and facilities built to facilitate this learning, yet learning rarely transcends note taking and facilities like the library are under-utilized. So: I would suggest that required reading be assigned in preparation for each class period and that access to all assigned readings be available in the library.

In the U.S. faculty development is encouraged as a substantial budget item, but not all best practices need cost a lot. St. Thomas College has many fine teachers with access to computers and research facilities that are also under-utilized. I would suggest that all faculty be required to achieve minimal computer literacy so as to use the internet to update course lecture notes and undertake academic research interests. This would improve classroom teaching as well as scholarship.

Educational institutions in the U.S. are finding that styles of administration that are more collegiate are preferable to structures based exclusively on command. St. Thomas College has generally been led by high quality administrators whose doors are open new ideas. I would suggest that the position of chair should be rotated among department faculty every 3-5 years so as to increase levels of collegiality. Courteous consulting of colleagues on matters of common concern often occurs more when one knows others will share some command authority in the future. Cooperative behavior patterns reflecting democratic values are then more likely to develop.

Freedom of expression is foundational to academic culture in the U.S.. While it is debated whether (or what time, place, and manner) restrictions may be needed with regards to this freedom, best practices uniformly agree that any complete ban clearly contradicts democratic values, critical thinking, and creativity. In this context, I would respectfully suggest that the General Discipline Guidelines published on pages 41-44 of the St. Thomas College Calendar (2009-2010) be carefully reviewed – and that those guidelines numbered 4, 8, 9, and 10 be either severely modified or eliminated. As a truth seeker, Mahatma Gandhi would not have silenced even his most vocal of critics – so why should we? Let us foster a campus culture that values a diversity of views, especially when those views are expressed in a responsible manner that is respectful of disagreement.

Week 11: India - La Vida Loca!

Train Stations and Transport

As some of you have read in the past, we have referenced the trains
as the Super Fast ( their description) Cockroach (our addition) Express.
They are often running late (but not as late as the planes and buses). When I wondered about whether or not a train had been canceled, our friend, Stany replied: Oh, no! Trains are never canceled. They just come tomorrow. I am told that some people spend their whole lives in the train station without ever riding on the train. During Sabarimala, the annual pilgrimage for the Hindus, blanket-covered sleeping bodies were everywhere-outside the station, inside the station, and on the train platform. In India, they typically have large water fountains on the platform and there people bathe, brush their teeth, do their laundry. Sorta like the Indian version of camping in Oregon.

Other vehicular oddities are certain trucks and buses, which are brightly
decorated with images of saints/ deities and other artistic symbols. (They
often name their vehicles after saints/ deities). The closest thing that parallels the image in the US are the trailers used to transport circus or carnival events.

Architecture

A house is being built next to us and thought that this might give some idea about the typical Keralan ambience. Guess what? No backhoe -just three guys with shovels digging the hole for the foundation. It looks like they put cement blocks with mortar for the foundation, and then adobe for the rest. Most homes here are covered in pastel colored stucco and topped with terracotta tile roofs. (There are some instances of neon green, orange, pink, or purple stucco, but the artistic sense here is impressive.) There the similarities end. No tract homes here. Plenty of variety- lots of patios, porches, balconies, terraces, breeze ways, porticoes, cupolas, bay windows, arched windows and doorways, etc... (Of course, there is the one-room, flat roof home that poor people have, but many Keralans enjoy a higher standard of living.)But no fireplaces except the sun. The tile work here is amazing. Even our humble apartment has tile flooring throughout and the kitchen counters are black,(flecked with white)granite. I would trade them for what I have in Oregon.

The places of worship are often beautifully done-the best buildings in the area. Hindu temples, especially the older ones are somewhat pyramid in shape, multileveled, with a flattened top. Encircling each level are brightly-colored carved figures of deities, animals, etc... that encompass sometimes, a hundred or more levels. The mosques and Christian churches are not as ornate but definitely impressive with high steeples and minarets that grace the skies. Christian churches are often white on the outside with lots of pictures/statues of saints (glass encased), gold gilded carving, and brightly colored veils hiding sections of the altar when formal worship is not taking place. The care in which places of worship are built and maintained evidence the high importance of religion in the culture. Also, there are shrines to saints and deities. Usually, they are phallic-shaped three story structures that have a glass encased image and an area where 2-3 people can kneel. So small, but tall!

In contrast, most places of business are either shacks or a version of garage. (They have a door which reminds me of our garage door and comes down when the place is closed. Windows are rare.) They are usually not that well-maintained. You usually ask for what you want in the front of the store and the shop keeper will get it for you. It is quite efficient if you and the shopkeeper are conversant in the same language. We should have learned Malayalam!

Women

What is most colorful in India is the women! Saris and churidars of every
description and color-silks, cottons, gauzes, rayons, synthetics. Keralan females generally have incredibly thick, long and black hair which adds to the drama. The Muslims are usually more subdued in public, usually wearing a black coat and a large triangular scarf (white or black) which covers hair and the neck. At home, I am told they dress similarly to the other women. In the north of India, there is more variation. Muslim women would have more colorful head scarves, but often would have only their eyes showing. One women in Gujarat (Muslim) had a colorful short, gauze head scarf with only her eyes visible, but readily visible was her tight jeans! What really amazed me was to see women of every religion, riding motorcycles, saris and scarves blowing in the wind. Another Muslim woman, covered, except for the eyes, was driving a motorcycle with her boyfriend (husband?) on the back! Another study in contrast is to consider the typically filthy public toilets (a hole in the ground) and women who (with clothing that virtually touches the ground) are able to emerge from such places without stain or even a wet or dingy hemline.

Wild Life

In Kerala, I can hear the birds, but see few of them because of failing eyesight and the dense foliage. (I did see some green parrots in Ahmadabad, as well as white terns travelling on the train). Subsequently, they will be identified as chirpers, howlers, tweeters, cooers, whistlers, and screamers . Some of you may have seen our photos of domesticated elephants that often trudge down our main road as pack animals. I was disappointed that there were no monkeys in Pala. During the War Resisters Conference in Ahmadabad (a city of few million people), we were conversing during our outdoor breakfast when mid sentence, I blurt out: Monkey!! There, about ten feet before us was a large 4ft monkey. Not in the jungle of Pala, but in the urban area of Ahmadabad. There were whole families of monkeys. It started to make sense why there were locks on every door at the university. Monkeys are agile and have opposable thumbs. Shaman said one night they were making such a racket that no one in his dorm could sleep that night. Another city surprise was the camel. Like elephants, they haul cargo, and sometimes are hitched up to a wagon. It is amazing that they are able to cope with the formidable urban traffic!

Finally, the wild life that is most precious to me are the many butterflies-not just the small white survivors, we see in the States but yellow and orange monarch types, white with blue or other bright colors, yellow with orange speckles, black or dark blue, with iridescent markings. On occasion, they have wing spans of over 6 inches. When I remarked to Stany about how it was so wonderful to see butterflies again, he sadly shook his head. In the past there had been many more and the larger variety is now more rare. What a shame that development comes at such a price! They are one variety of big bug that I miss seeing in the US.

Week 10: Northern Kerala

Pictured above is the Beach Hotel/Heritage Inn in Kozhikode (previously know as Calicut), in northern Kerala. Built in 1890 to house the Malabar English Club, over the years it has seen the birth of the Indian Muslem League, and has served people like Somerset Maugham, Indian Prime Ministers Jawaharala Nehru and Indira Gandhi, as well as the Sonnleitner family. Yes, the infamous Sonnleitners celebrated the 22nd birthday of Shaman there for three days last week. He cared less about the history of the place than the fact that it was located across the street from a beautiful Arabian Sea beach and had a fully functional bar on premises!

All travel expenses for the 3 of us were covered by The Mathrubhumi (a malayalam language newspaper which means The Motherland) and is known for its patriotic and anti-American sentiments. A reporter had covered a talk I gave at Kerala University (in Thiruvananthapuram)last month -- on The Green Movement and Gandhi -- which apparently had impressed the organizers of an event in Kunnar commemorating the historic visit of Gandhi to the newspaper main office 75 years ago. I was one of two primary speakers who would have 20 minutes each in a program devoted mainly to honoring about 30 Freedom Fighters from the Independence Movement (all of whom were aged 80 or more). The Mathrubhumi (circulation 1.2 million, with a readership estimated at 8 million), gave front page coverage to the event in its Sunday newspaper.

I confess to being surprisingly moved by the presence of the Gandhian Freedom Fighters. As these nonviolent soldiers sang out LONG LIVE MAHATMA GANDHI, it was as if I were for a moment transported back to the pre-1947 struggle against British colonialism. These Freedom Fighters had suffered for that cause, while refusing to inflict suffering upon their oppressors. They had emerged victorious, inspiring with hope nonviolent movements all over the world ranging from the civil rights movement in the U.S. to the overthrowing of dictatorships in Chile, Poland, the Philippines, and Serbia. They had earned my respect and I felt very humbled in their presence.

After my short speech, in which I described Globalization as a new colonialism which requires a new (and word wide) Independence Movement, several people described themselves as moved to tears (with one person telling me while he had hatred for America, he could no longer feel hatred for all Americans). Gandhi, I reminded the crowd, would hate no person, but would oppose policies deemed to be evil through disciplined nonviolence. Noting my own hypocracy by displaying a Samsung cell phone made functional by Reliance Corporation (a huge Indian multinational corporation), I challenged others to see that countries and corporations are not the primary problem – if we as consumers continue to cooperate with their often inflated profits. Given the reality of our ecological interdependence, in short, we must seek to live more simply, that others may simply live. The International Green Movement may well evolve into a new Independence Movement in which not our liberty is at stake, but also life as we know it on this planet.

Dear reader, please forgive the extremely serious tone of these comments. Survival is at issue, especially for the 2.8 billion people in this world (700 million in India) who live on less than $2/day – and this is serious for us all: as Martin Luther King Jr. would say: Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere... That said, cannot we take time also to enjoy life? Neither King nor Gandhi require us to be sour-faced. Let us take time for needed relaxation and laughter too – or the world we may successfully save may not be one we want to live in (ha)! Three nights at a fancy hotel on a beach (with a little ice cream for when temperatures top 100 degrees) definitely helps restore a smile to an otherwise sweaty face!

So it is that the trip to Kannur included three days at the beach in Kozhikode, with my participating in a Gandhi Seminar at Calicut University and an International Seminar on Technology Enhanced Language Learning (where yes, I provided a Gandhian critique of reliance any exclusive upon programs offered by Rosetta Stone and the University of Phoenix). Thankfully, Kris and Shaman can pick and choose what events they care to attend – and do not have to get sick of me talking too much.

Having now returned to Pala (via a 9 hour train ride), it is safe to say we are all exhausted – and seriously overheated with high humidity too. Today I purchased another fan, hoping it might allow for better sleep tonight – if the power does not cut out due to too many other people plugging in more fans too (ha)! Global warming is very real here, with even the locals sometimes finding it difficult to cope. No need for hot showers though: the cool water is mosty welcome relief. It would seem wise now to continue my writing duties (as requested by those for whom I spoke last week), in the relative cool of the morning. Tonight will be time for me to take advantage of a neighbors TV set to see some of the Winter Olympic Games. Need to think COOL....

Week 9: Nedumkandam

A highlight of this week was the visit to Nedumkandam College in rural Chembalam, Idukki District, Kerala. This college is one of 32 supported by the Muslim Education Society, an organization also responsible for running 72 other educational institutions, 7 Hostels, 3 cultural Centers, and 3 orphanages. In the featured photo above, students & staff at Nedumkandam are pictured following my presentation (one hour plus an hour for questions) on The Green Movement & Gandhi. The event was arranged by the Principal, Dr. A.M. Rasheed, a friend and classmate of Dr. Stany Thomas (my colleague at St. Thomas College who provided transportation to the event -- over 3 hours each way).

My talk was recorded (and I was given a copy, if anyone would like to hear it), and I have agreed to a future interview with Dr. Rasheed to be published in a magazine as well as to to write an article (based on my presentation today) suitable for publication. Put briefly, I supported a thesis that 1) the earth is facing threats to the environment on many fronts as never before, 2) these threats are linked to Globalization which can be seen as a New Colonialism, 3) Gandhian Thought is clearly reflected the 4 pillars of the Green Movement, and 4) the International Green Movement is a major force for a New Independence which may help save life as we know it on this planet.

Kristine and Shaman took a break from listening to me talk, with Shaman staying home in Pala (still recovering from the activity of the Ahmadabad Conference last week), and Kris taking time to visit with Shanty (Stanys wife) and her family who live not far from Nedunkandam College. Without Stany and Shanty many of our experiences in India would either not happen at all, or would have been far less enjoyable. They and their extended families have effectively adopted us and so we have been provided a psychological (and physical) support system which none of us dreamed might have been ours in India. Exhausted after my presentation at Nedunkandam, for example, all urged me to take a nap at the Shanty family home, and I did! Very nice.

Other activities this last week included 3 hours with my Gandhian Thought students at St. Thomas College, 5 hours teaching International Relations to postgraduate students preparing for Government of India Civil Service Exams, and a 2 hour lecture/discussion at Mahatma Gandhi University (scheduled as the first of a Tuesday afternoon lecture series regarding Nonviolence that may continue up to ten weeks -- if there remains an interest). All totaled, I was involved directly in some kind of teaching activity for 12 hours this week (less than my normal 16 at Portland Community College) -- and none required any creating or grading of assignments on my part! While there is work, this really is quite a vacation too!

So that all may not be seen as fun and games, my personal email account at hotmail was hacked this week, with the result that I have not been able to access it since. Far more irritating than that, the hacker sent out a bogus letter appealing for money from those I have previously communicated with from that account. Hopefully the thief received no funds from well meaning friends. It is not easy to clean up such a mess -- and hotmail has thus far been none to speedy in helping this happen.

While Shaman and Kristine choose a somewhat slower activity level than myself, we all seem to be weathering the increasing heat and humidity (with the help of additional table fans) and the mosquitos (with the help of netting at night). Kris went to a doctor located at a hospital only a short walk from our home. The total cost of 2 doctor visits plus prescriptions was under Rs 200 (4-5 dollars) = up to two days wages for a very poor person, but very little for a middle class Indian. The sobering fact is that, unlike in the U.S. where health care remains a privilege, such access is available to every person in India (citizen or foreign visitor) as a matter of Right. Can it be that the economically wealthiest country on the face of the planet may have something to learn from one of the poorest? It is true that India has great economic poverty, but in spiritual values actually put to practice, the U.S. may be seen as more seriously poor.