February 2011: The Whether of our Lives

Pictured here is Vandana Shiva, ecofeminist author and activist, sharing with a large audience last week at Portland Community College (PCC). It is rare that we have a speaker who challenges us to reflect on the whether of our lives: choices confronting humanity (and each of us) at this time in our evolution. She does so by her words and also by her personal example.

Whether or not she would be able to share with my students and others at PCC would be at the whim of the weather! Several days before a severe winter storm was forecast to include up to 4 inches of snow (10 centimeters) with temperatures down to 19 degrees Fahrenheit (-3 C.). The day she spoke the temperatures were down and snow had fallen – and most schools were closed. PCC opened two hours late at 10am (precisely the time she was scheduled to begin)! A second talk later in the day was set for 3-4pm (and yes, more snow closed down facilities by 4pm)! It seems that providence does provide us with learning opportunities. Whether or not we take advantage of them will always remain our choice.

Vandana Shiva`s message can be summarized as follows: Globalization today is a new form of colonialism in which multinational corporations (like Monsanto) seek to control our lives through redefining the Commons as private property from which profits should be enjoyed by the few even at the expense of the many. The Commons includes forests, plants, animals, and water that is produced by nature and now is being patented for production in the name of progress. Without our consent we become test subjects in experiments ranging from genetically modified foods to consumers (of fossil fuels, cosmetics, faster cars, and all manner of unnecessary things) which adversely impact everything from traditional weather patterns, to the increasing gap between rich and poor, to our personal health.

Due to conversations we had had prior to her speaking (as I was moderator for the morning event), Vandana Shiva thoughtfully linked her message to the teachings of Gandhi. Just as Gandhi, in his time, had proposed the spinning wheel in response to global textile production that was disempowering the rural poor of India, now she seeks to develop seed banks in response to the corporate patenting of life which seeks to disempower us all today even as it threatens the precious biodiversity of the planet. It is in this context that she renews Gandhi`s call for Swaraj (self-rule) and Swadeshi (local self-sufficiency) by means of Satyagraha (holding firm to the truth as we see it) and Sarvodaya (constructive programs with the good of all in mind).

As I listened to her, I was reminded of similar talks I was giving throughout the six months of my Fulbright grant in India last year. I was also reminded of how easy it has been to fall back into the comfortable lifestyle patterns my family and I had prior to that experience. Of course there are always degrees of hypocrisy. No one, even Gandhi, has ever remained perfectly in tune with their values. That said, whether or not we seek to reduce the gap between what we believe and how we live (and so reduce the degree of our hypocracies) is left to each of us to decide. Certainly it is easier to point out the shortcomings of others, as well as of entire societies – but our criticisms carry little weight if we exclude ourselves from them. I thank Vandana Shiva for sparking in me a renewed desire to commit to more radical lifestyle changes. Through my communications here, perhaps others may consider whether to make new choices for themselves…

The fires of change continue to burn off past fears throughout much of the Arab world, with the winds of freedom having blown out the autocratic rule of Mubarak in Egypt on February 11th. Now people are demanding change in Libya, Yemen, Bahrain, and elsewhere – with the cost in lives seeming to increase with each falling dictatorship. How far the dominos will fall, we shall see. The current wave of freedom (self-rule, swaraj) may soon seem to recede, but it does wear away at the rocks in our lives in ways that are hard to foresee. Let us proceed forth in the faith that no effort is wasted, no sacrifice is without worth. If we can be true to ourselves as individuals and hold firm to the truth that is ours, over time, others will be impacted and progress will be made towards realizing what Gandhi described as Ram Rajya (the Kingdom of God). Small steps in our lives can cascade into positive global consequences!

On the Sonnleitner home front, changes have also been happening. In a definitely significant first step towards greater self-rule, our youngest daughter Mira has settled into her first living situation free of her parents! Our son Shaman has overcome significant obstacles to personal empowerment by completing his high school diploma! Our nephew, Stephan, departs after over a year of living with us tomorrow when he catches an airplane to Thailand where he will begin several months of solo travel abroad! Our (foster/adopted) daughter Margarita is learning how to cook many traditional Mexican dishes for the first time and even treated us all to a fine meal last night (with an added bonus to me when her one-year old daughter Hanilyn allowed me to pick her up and hold her for the first time)! Last, but not least, the Maldonado Family (close friends to Kristine and I) are all set for improved financial independence as they embark on putting their Mexican cooking skills to work in their own mobile restaurant!

The whether of our lives is clearly affected by weather, socio-political, economic, and other realities that often seem to dictate our choices. Gandhi once said that we may only have as much free will as the deck passenger on an ocean liner. Still, that free will can be used to liberate ourselves and greater empowerment may be achieved. Vandana Shiva`s seed banks help. Overcoming our fears of what others tell us is acceptable can help a lot. Whether our freedom is constrained by the dictators, multinational corporations, social customs that limit our expressions of compassion, or personal fears that may be our most severe barriers – change is possible. We can move about the ocean liner, and even have some say as to the direction it takes. Through the pain that may be inevitable in our lives, at least, let us thoroughly enjoy the opportunities we have to share with one another.

2011 January: Nonviolent Revolutions

The featured photo this month was taken in the Multicultural Center on the Portland Community College Rock Creek Campus where I have taught courses two days each week for 23 years. Inspired by Martin Luther King Jr. (see the mural) and others, these students and I are now coordinating a weekly free speech event series entitled OPEN MIND OPEN MIC (OMOM). In the month just past our events have featured students sharing their experiences relating to how Drug Wars in Mexico have affected their families there, student clubs advertising opportunities for social and educational programming, a birthday celebration of the life of Martin Luther King Jr.. This photo was made just yesterday following an OMOM event focused upon people`s movements now sweeping through the Arab world.

The Jasmine Revolution in Tunisia overthrew an autocratic government which had brutally maintained itself in power there for 23 years. 29 days of surprisingly nonviolent protests, following the self-immolation of a young unemployed man (Mohammad Bouazizi) in December, culminated in a collapse of a government famous for press and internet censorship as well as platitudes of concern for the poor which had resulted in little more than arrests without trial for those who complained. That such a small country of 10 million might inspire others with similar complaints is not very surprising. Now people in Egypt have taken to the streets in earnest, with stirrings of hope also becoming manifest in Algeria, Yemen, Jordan, and even Saudi Arabia. Hope for justice. Hope that empowered people on a mass scale may have better insights into their needs and how to fulfill them than autocratic and paternalistic elites who claim to act on their behalf but are out of touch with their realities.

Gandhi, there should be no doubt, would be pleased. Spontaneous uprisings cannot be expected to exhibit the highly disciplined nonviolence he would most prefer. Yet it is better to act imperfectly than to live in fearful inactivity. The self-esteem central to self-realization (a religious goal) and self-actualization (its secular counterpart) require action. As I commemorated the anniversary of Gandhi`s assassination on January 30th, it warmed my heart to see his spirit resurrected on the streets of Cairo and those who occupied Tahrir Square in spite of the brutality of security forced that had vowed to prevent them from so acting. Since demonstrations in Eqypt began on January 25th, my thoughts have been daily devoted to those who touched our lives as we traveled throughout that country for three weeks last July. At that time, I could sense the atmosphere of severe dissatisfaction as not one person we met had much good to say about the government. Yet fear ruled. When fear is overcome (as is now being revealed) change is inevitable. When true independence and a functional democracy is achieved success is only a matter of time if the activists hold firm. As Gandhi said with regards to the end of British rule in India, it will fall like a ripe fruit.

Gandhi understood that nonviolent revolution has its beginning in our own attitudes. No one can rule us if we rule ourselves. Ultimately the objective is not to simply replace one set of rulers with another – but to rule ourselves (individually and in our communities). This is the Swaraj (self rule) which may bring us glimpses of the Kingdom of God (inspired by the core teachings of each of the world`s religious traditions). For common people like you and I these teachings (seeking Truth, through Nonviolence, with a willingness to Voluntarily Suffer) may be very imperfectly manifest. Still, fulfillment is in the effort. Even what seems like failure in the short term builds toward future success. Sadly, it took years of struggle to affirm the right of those living in the south of Sudan to win decisive victory at the ballot box (opting to create an independent state with over 98% support) this month. Whatever success there may be, it is really not for us to give ourselves credit for what little may be achieved at any point in time. The pride born of egotism is one root of oppressive behaviors! So it is that my greatest praise go to those who risk their lives to build a better world by proclaiming as they do so that GOD IS GREAT (Allah Akbar)!

In our Sonnleitner household, a mostly nonviolent revolution also continues (though it will almost certainly not make international news)! Our youngest daughter (Mira) has moved into an apartment of her own for the first time, with her good friend Naomi (both of whom traveled with my wife and I in India, Italy, and Eqypt last year). Our daughter Sonrisa is progressing well in her university studies, even as our son Shaman is nearly finished with high school requirements and seems more open than ever before to exploring his spirituality. Our daughter Margarita and her family blessed our home with a gathering of about 25 of her (mostly Mexican) friends and in-laws with a party featuring wonderful live music and way too much to eat! Kristine and I gave a talk at Ascension Catholic Church regarding some people who inspired us during our travels last year which raised a little money for some good causes and resulted in an article being written in the conservative Catholic Sentinel newspaper. That the University of Oregon lost a good football game to Auburn (emerging as runner-up to the national championship) was entertaining but of little consequence. Sports definitely can help build both self-esteem and bridges among communities – but it really is not about who wins or loses in the short term, but how we play the game in the present.

Events this month in Tunisia, Sudan, Egypt, and elsewhere highlight the power of nonviolence to build communities of support that may inspire others to more peaceful revolutions. Reflecting back upon the War Resister`s International Conference my wife, son, and I attended in Ahmadabad (India) at this time last year, this months`events were certainly not forecast! Nonviolent activists from all over the world met in the land of Gandhi to give hope to one another, share experiences, and improve their organizational skills. Such people are like farmers for change whose individual and collective efforts reap good crops in unpredictable ways. Those few people at the WRI Conference from Africa may have included only a few from Sudan and Egypt – but those few now find themselves among many calling for greater democracy and respect for human rights.

For those of us currently in safe environments, with adequate food and shelter even when very harsh weather may hit (due to forces unleashed by climate change). It is for us to see ourselves as not separate from the greater suffering of others. It is for us to perform our duties and contribute to the better world of the future which may be largely reaped beyond our lifetimes. Let us support one another as best we can, in spirit, and with such resources as we may share. Father Tom in Tamil Nadu, know that I am thinking of you and your hospice work. My sister Dina, know that your working to republish the entire of the Collected Works of Mahatma Gandhi will have a far-reaching impact. My friend Alvaro, know that as you cope well with the loss of family members, know that those who remain will have stronger relationships than before. Zoughbi Zoughbi in occupied Bethlehem, do not doubt that your efforts to mediate conflicts will bear good fruit. Kathy Kelly, our family friend who is awaiting sentencing for protesting against the use of military drones in Pakistan and Afganistan, know that no prison can silence your message of compassion. My friend Mohamed in Egypt, God be with you as we join you in hope that a new dawn may soon dispel the violence being exposed throughout your country.

All of us are capable of transforming ourselves beyond fear to become the nonviolent revolutionaries needed in this world. May we inspire one another to grow in our willingness to sacrifice for the sake of becoming peacemakers.

Week 33 Aswan & Luxor

Sunset over the Nile reflects well our last week in Egypt: bright and colorful. As we now prepare to depart for the U.S., time can be taken to reflect upon some of the remarkable sights and people who have touched our lives during our traveling from Cairo to Aswan, to Luxor, and back to Cairo.

Sights have included temples and tombs from as early as 3,000BC, including locations like Abu Simbel, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Karnak, the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, and Luxor (known as Thebes, the capital used by many of the 320 pharaohs from 300 dynasties covering 3,000 years). While all of these are worthy of visitation by tourist and scholars alike, detailed descriptions would best be left to National Geographic. Abu Simbel, however, stands out in the memory as its colossal statues survived the rising waters of Lake Nasser after the Aswan High Dam was completed in 1971. The Amun-Ra Temple of Karnak was also a must-see as the largest religious building ever constructed, so massive that it could encompass two St. Peters Basilicas (the largest church in the world)! None of us are likely to forget the Valley of the Kings, as summer temperatures on that day reached 50 C. (122 degrees Fahrenheit)!

Traveling to Abu Simbel required a 3:30am wake up call to a 4-hour journey in an over-full minibus. Between attempts to sleep we enjoyed conversations with a very international mix of people. The Core of this group would also return together as well as travel from Aswan to Luxor, and even talking late into the night at the Oasis Hotel (where I had booked accommodations for the four of us in Luxor). Jeremy (Britain) took the prize for most entertaining stories, as he had been traveling for several years and had eaten everything from camel to snake. Jamie and Heather (U.S.) were the best listeners, while John and Barbara (New Zealand) would complain the most about our cramped conditions – though they became progressively more amiable the more we visited with them (especially when the air conditioning was functional). Our 2 comrades from Australia added much humor to the mix, even when, on the trip to Luxor, they had to find other transportation due to bus overbooking. The setting of the full moon and a brilliant sunrise over the desert (only 20 miles from the Egyptian border with Sudan) were unexpectedly beautiful bonuses to a travel plan to beat the heat.

Returning from Abu Simbel, Jeremy, Jaime, Heather, and us transferred to a much smaller vehicle to visit the Aswan Dam and other sights. The Dam was quite massive (with more materials used in its construction than all of the great pyramids combined). While it had dramatically improved electrical production after 1971 and increased agricultural production by 30% in the country, I later learned that it had also displaced over 20,000 people (almost entirely Nubian small farmers) who received little to no compensation for their loss. As has been the case in India, dam projects become monuments to modern pharaohs and the already wealthy benefit while most costs are borne by the poor. Such dam construction and displacement was a contributing cause of the emergence of the Tamil Tigers in Sri Lanka (Hindus who were the first to use suicide bombing as a strategy), as well as the growth of the Islamic Brotherhood in Egypt (which would inspire angry Muslims who would organize Islamic Jihad, Hezbollah, Hamas, and Al-Qaida). While working effectively to control Nile flooding, the Aswan Dam prevented the natural refertilization of the soil and so has made Egypt dependent upon chemical fertilizers (eagerly provided by multinational corporations).

In Aswan, three friendships developed through conversations with friendly local residents: Ahmad, Miro, and Mohamed. Ahmad is a Nubian (more African than Arabian) Muslim whose family was among those displaced by the Aswan High Dam. 39 years old, he is unmarried in part due to low income from underemployment. He lives with his also unmarried brothers on Elephantine Island, now largely a tourist attraction for foreigners visiting Aswan who want boat rides on the Nile. Having met Ahmad in an internet café, I was impressed by his mellow temperament and willingness to share of himself. We walked through the market together and talked about our lives. Later he arranged for Mira, Naomi, Kris, and I to take a motorboat cruise on the Nile for which he served as guide. Fair price, no hassles, and a patient pace that allowed time even for me to go swimming!

My wife and I met Miro near the Temple of Philae, when we were too hot and irritated by entrance fees (always $10-15/person to see) and yet had to wait 90 minutes anyway for the minibus to pick us up. Miro owned the only café (very small, only two meal options) in the area, where we filled our stomachs for about $2 each. His English skills were very good as his father and grandfather (who both died early in his life) had encouraged him to go to college. Unemployed thereafter, he joined the Egyptian Army and became a trained sniper. That career ended when his eyesight suffered from the stress of his duties and he was forced to be discharged. Miro came by the Memnon Hotel (where we were staying in Aswan city, with its amazing view of the Nile), and we talked late one evening about violence and nonviolence and how a soldier with either orientation can be praised for the qualities of discipline and self-sacrifice that are needed. I was not surprised that he had admiration for Gandhi, in part due to Gandhi`s very positive relationship with Muslim communities. A Muslim himself, he displays both curiosity and respect for others by maintaining long-distance communications with Jewish and Christian friends he has met over the years. Unmarried, I encouraged him to be open to a relationship in which his many fine qualities might bless another person`s life.

I met Mohamed as he is the night employee at the Memnon Hotel in Aswan. Always awake (and usually praying to Allah) when I came to the lobby early to use our computer, he and I were able to talk at length about his life and dreams. A citizen of Sudan, Mohamed has a 9-year old daughter who lives with his former wife who is Egyptian. He works two jobs to support them both and dreams of educating his daughter and returning with her to Sudan (the only country that grants her citizenship). Educational opportunities are better in Egypt, though they cost LE 800 per year for non-citizens (a fortune for him at $120). So it is that he normally works 16 hours each day and sleeps 3-4 hours, asking for Allah to give him strength to fulfill his duties. Of the $160 his daughter needs to continue her schooling in September, he has been able to save only $60. For what was spent by the four of us to go to Abu Simbel on one day, he could be assured of another year of education for his daughter. Let this be food for thought as we (who are so privileged in this world) often take more care to fulfill our wants while the best efforts of others may fall short of satisfying their most basic needs…. It is my hope that Mohamed and I will maintain contact in the years to come and be supportive of one another as friends should be.

In Luxor Kris, Mira, Naomi, and I stayed only one night at the Oasis Hotel, where extreme heat had overwhelmed their air-conditioners and power outages (our first since living in India) made climbing the stairs to our room (without an elevator) an endurance contest. Hussan, the manager at the Oasis was very understanding when we shifted to the 3-star Gaddis Hotel – and even offered to drive us to the new accommodations free of charge! This was especially impressive as competition for the tourist trade is so fierce that I was able to negotiate with the Gaddis to pay them only half price (just a little more than the $10/night per person in two rooms which had drawn us originally to the Oasis). July and August are when few tourists arrive by any means other than luxury cruise boats, as these months can reach temperatures as high as 140 degrees. At the Gaddis we had cool rooms with refrigerators, cable TV, a private bathroom with tub, and a view of the pool…. So we had luxury in Luxor for our last hotel stay in Egypt!

Taxi drivers helped introduce us to life`s realities in Luxor. Ali and his brother took us to all of the tourist sites we desired to see while showing us where their family had been evicted from their traditional home near the Valley of the Kings (as part of an effort by the one-party state to make that are more visually appealing to tourists). The low compensation was presented as ``take it and leave the property``, leaving the family entirely dependent upon tourist income (from their taxis and alabaster factories). How precarious this is can be seen in how disappointed Ali was that I employed another taxi to take Mira, Naomi, and I to go visit a center for rehabilitating abused animals – with that taxi driver having had only our short ride as income for four days. The many horses, donkeys, Mules, and occasional camel that ACE (Animal Care in Egypt) treated for free would never have received treatment because the owners are too poor. The taxi driver that day had no air conditioning and functioned with a battery that struggled to start, since charging a battery costs too much when one`s income is near zero.

Mohamed, a felucca (traditional sail boat) owner, who I met during an afternoon walk, is in a similar situation. Ours was the only business he had had for a week, even though is boat is moored very near the five-star Sheraton Hotel in Luxor. A remarkably amiable person, Mohamed thanks Allah for every blessing and seeks to avoid bitterness through prayer. Most tourists from the Sheraton book boat rides through the hotel (which gives business only to those owners who agree to kick back money to the hotel). Mohamed does not play that game, partly because the Nile waterfront land upon which the hotel is built was previously owned by his family for generations (yes, you guessed it: until the Egyptian government forced them to sell it for $600 or be removed by the military). Now he works hard to support his family on a net income of about LE 10,000 ($200)/year that could have been much more except for the taxes and fees he pays (for mooring his boat on what remains of his own land), as well as the bribes that must be paid to local police and government officials to allow him to continue operations….

So the sun sets on our two weeks in Egypt. It is as bright and colorful as many of the people we have met here. Yet the beauty of this land remains more to be realized in the future than in its past or present. Modern Pharaohs benefit the already wealthy (as has always been true) while cutting deals with multinational corporations that promise little relief for the poor (beyond tourism). The two overnight sleeper trains (from Cairo to Aswan and Luxor back to Cairo) cost us each $60/night – more than many hard working Egyptians take home to their families in a month. Officially, day trains are off-limits to foreigners, so even we had few transportation options (except hot and undependable buses and more expensive plane flights or a hired car). At least our complaints (which were expressed) run little risk of resulting in arrest or torture (a common reality here which does nothing to reduce U.S. support for the regime).

As we now return to the United States, let us consider how we may modify our lives and influence policies in ways that can benefit the many wonderful people who struggle to just survive in places like India, the West Bank, and Egypt. For them a new political day must dawn and economic policies to benefit the poor must be fashioned in order for future sunsets to be fully appreciated by all. As Gandhi once said: God comes to the poor in the form of bread. Sunsets do not deliver food to the table. Through our collective efforts, we can create a world where all in the human family may have basic needs met. On that road to build global justice, peace can be ours.

Week 32: Cairo

As can be seen from the photograph of the four of us here, Kris and I have reunited with our daughter Mira and her friend Naomi in Egypt! It had been six weeks since we were last together in Rome….

Kris and I took two days instead of one to travel to Cairo from Israel, arriving three days ahead of Mira and Naomi. Since we were traveling by bus (cheap, cheap!), we had to get our visas at the Egyptian consulate in Eilat. What we had been told would be a one hour procedure took all afternoon when a key official decided to go home early for the weekend. So we decided to stay the night in Eilat, a prime tourist vacation area on the Red Sea, and rest up for the second of two 5-hour bus rides. The first had taken us along the length of the Dead Sea. The second took us across the breadth of the Sinai Desert. Thank heaven that both buses were air-conditioned! Good conversations with two U.N. soldiers (from Chile, stationed on Cyprus) and a young student (Daniel) from the U.S. helped time pass quickly on day 2.

Our accommodation for the week was the Arabian Nights Hostel, located in an older area that was called Islamic Cairo. An incredibly small room, with a tiny refrigerator, AC, and private bathroom had no window and was a little on the smelly side. A very friendly staff provided a very poor breakfast as part of the $10/person/night price (cheap, cheap!). Visiting with other guests there was part of the benefit, as they could often provide tips about where to sight-see and how to do so with less hassle and expense. One such guest was Len who was with his two daughters Medea and Lena. These three came from Australia where Len had built a mud-brick home on 30 acres of land some 26 km from the coast near Brisbane. Len was a self-described old hippie who now produced his own electricity, living a simple life with his wife and occasional visitors – and without any nearby neighbors.

Len and his daughters joined the four of us on a dinner cruise on the Nile. $30/person seemed a good splurge for 2 hours, until we discovered the ship only traveled about one mile (very slowly) before it turned around and that we had to pay for any refreshment (including water – at ten times the street price)! Still, the views of downtown Cairo from the top deck were very fine, and the on board entertainment very bizarre: music so loud speech was nearly impossible, a belly dancer whose costume left little to the imagination, and a dancing male dwarf in a skirt (whirling dervish) with a companion able to pour and drink water while spinning himself in circles. Memorable. Strange, but memorable. Some older folks (including Kris and I) preferred the more quiet scene on the top deck, which also included having water poured on us by some pranksters as we passed with just inches of clearance under a bridge. Strange also, but memorable!

Our day at the Pyramids was the highlight of the week, as we hired a taxi to transport the 4 of us to three sites: Giza, Sakkara, and Dashur (14 pyramids in all!). At Giza we spent over two hours on horseback (Kris and I) and camel (Mira and Naomi) being guided around the three great pyramids and six smaller ones. Reaching into the sky nearly 1,000 feet, the two largest (shown in the picture) are breathtaking. Up close one can see that most of the building measure 10-12 cubic feet (small enough to make them manually moveable, with great difficulty. This is not to entirely discount the possibility of alien assistance (ha), as they were constructed with almost unbelievable mathematical precision – and 4,500 years ago!!! The Sphinx was also impressive (even without his nose), and gave us a little break from the riding. It may well be the camels will be remembered by us as fondly as these wonders of the world. When Naomi`s camel sneezed and nearly blew green slimy stuff all over Mira too, well, that was an event also for history to record! At Sakkara the girls and I were able to walk around inside several tombs with ancient hieroglyphics and paintings (sadly available to be touched and corrupted) and a smaller pyramid (through passageways not more than 4 feet high and not designed for the claustrophobic). There also was to Immotep Museum at Sakkara where photos were not allowed but where the one employee could not enforce the rule – and Mira and Naomi could see their first mummy! At Dashur Kris watched while the three of us climbed 200 steps (about 1/4th the way up a large pyramid) in hopes of being able to enter, only to find the door installed there to be locked! Still, the view was great from up there, and you know a great time is being had even when the disappointments are fantastic!

The four of also took a day trip to Alexandria this week, with Mohammad (the same taxi driver who took us to the pyramids). During the 3 hour ride there (and 3 hours back) there were remnants of no fewer than 10 major accidents to be seen – including the burned out skeleton of a car still smoldering. Mohammad explained that too many people drive far too fast on this 6 lane highway, with too little sleep (especially truck drivers), often with either alcohol or drugs involved. I also learned from him that a monthly salary for a contracted driver like himself is about 1,200 Egyptian pounds ($240) – much better than what he made as a cook in a restaurant ($120), or what a fruit vendor on the street might earn (about $60: $2/day). Alexandria itself had a Mediterranean shoreline reminiscent of Chicago at Lake Michigan, only with literally tens of thousands of people packing the miles of sandy beaches! Walking the seaside promenade near the Citadel of Quast Bay (dating from the days of Alexander the Great), and viewing Pompey`s Pillar (from Roman Times), were also highlights.

Other activities worth mentioning would include Kris and I attending St. Joseph`s Catholic Church (on the Island of Zamalek in Cairo) for Sunday Mass (in French), the girls and I going to the Egyptian National Museum (while Kris was feeling ill for a day): there viewing a great many amazing displays including mummified crocodiles (20 feet long), King Tut`s 50 lb. golden mask/headpiece, thrones, chariots, and other artifacts too numerous to mention. Of course, there were also the hours spent shopping in the Khan el Khalily bazaar getting harassed by shopkeepers desperate for a sale and by men whose stereotypical humor too often included `` how many camels may I pay for your daughter``? Male expressions clearly crossed the line on at least two occasions when 1) an older man quietly proposed an encounter with Mira (receiving instead a severe scolding from me) and 2) a young man pulled down his pants and exposed himself (when I was not nearby the two girls). It would seem that in big cities like Cairo (20 million) and Alexandria (4 million), the behaviors of some Muslim men fall far short of what the Prophet would (an did) prescribe as honorable.

As we now approach Aswan by night train from Cairo (a 13 hour ride), the morning sun reveals a Nile river with date palms, stone rural homes, and people riding donkeys. Here is an ancient land now in economically hard times, where 137 pharaohs ruled during 300 dynasties for a period of 3,000 years. Humbled by Greek, Roma, and Turkish rule, by Napoleon and the supposedly civilized British, there remains a proud people who deserve to be proud of their past and are working together to build a better life for themselves and their children. Guided by Allah, there is no reason why they cannot succeed.